The Demise of the Bar Car - Sadly

That Fun Bar Car  

Plush Interior
Of A Classic Bar Car

It was a fun time when the “fat guy“, Ooh! What’s his name? Arthur Godfrey? Or was it Jackie Gleason? Yes, Jackie Gleason. You know, if I recall correctly from past readings, Gleason had an entire train - “a rolling bar car” – from New York City to Miami for the Winter Season Television series of his. The train was referred to as "The Great Gleason Express". 

Party Girl On The Great Gleason Express
New York Penn Station to Miami
Courtesy of Ken P. D. Syndecast

See the drums and sax! What a trip!

I know of this first hand, as I grew up in Miami, Florida...Miami Beach, The “Gables”, The Rickenbacker Causeway, Key Biscayne, The Eden Roc Hotel and adjacent Fontainebleau Hotel.  Oh those were the days. Yes, when travel was a pleasure.

To wit, you traveled in style. Men with a jacket, ladies in a dress or skirt and blouse. Hard to imagine that Lululemon Yoga pants had not yet been invented. Which of course now seems to be the "dress code" for airline travel. Back to on the train - if you chose the dining car, it had a menu. There was silver service! Hot meals prepared in a kitchen. 

One of the legendary travel schemes was the "Bar Train".

The Jackie Gleason  Bar Train had quite a reputation for “fun ‘n games“. Jackie would bring his show down to Miami, Florida - and what better way to travel then on a train, particularly if it was with all your friends and you had an open bar.

The Bar Car, it has various names - Tavern car, Cafe,  Karma, Bar Car Prophesy -  according to Rosie Shaap,

Observation Car

Retro Bar Car

in her book “Drinking with Men“. Where we find her as a teen, right from the start, in the bar car performing tarot  card readings on the New York City commuter train.

I rode those cars in the USA from Richmond, Virginia to Miami, Florida. The Seaboard Coast Line Observation Car. It was the last car on the train. Easily spotted in the rear of the train. The “car” was stainless steel covered & at the end of the car had an “observation” view. The inside had plush sitting chairs which faced inward. Small groups of seating,  some had a small round table for cards or business. The Barman wore a white jacket and a black bow tie. The Barman would greet you and hand you a menu. You were served at your seat. Upon  return with your drink, he’d be carrying it on a silver tray. Like the silver service in the Dining Car. 

Smoking was allowed! That’s right, you heard me correctly, smoking was allowed. As a young man, I remember smoking Antonio and Cleopatra Grenadiers with my Cutty Sark Scotch. Typically reading a Playboy magazine. At that time, the magazine was less than 10 years old. Is it still around now?

Although I can’t speak for the European trains of years past, the prestige of these traveling bars has faded to a more modest efficient service café car with sandwiches – pre-wrapped –  you purchase at the counter. That’s right, you have to walk up there and ask for the sandwich. Of course there is no smoking now. It would be oh so inappropriate to pull out your Playboy magazine and read that in front of mixed company. You have heard of the "MeToo Movement"!

Pardon me while I enjoy thoughts of the menu. Bright white cardstock. Emblazoned with the emblem of the rail line with a picture of an engine coming toward you. On the card a list of drinks and cocktails. What it might have been, on the menu that is, that you might order from. Manhattan, Daiquiri, Scotch or Bourbon whiskey on the rocks? 

Seaboard Coast Line

Beverage List

circa 1960s

Oh yes, that was a long time ago -

Here's looking at you Kid.

Hello Miami!

Cocktail

Martini, Beefeaters. Dry. Up, please.
Music -  "Fly Me to the Moon" by Sinatra.
Appetizer - Smoked Scotland Trout. Toast with dill mustard on the side.

Photos courtesy of Wikipedia and various railways.

In The Berkshires. A Walk in the Woods, Down by the Stream

It started out,  simply  enough, I had looked into having a guide for fly fishing in the Berkshires. 

Housatonic River
The Berkshires Massachusetts

 Time passes ...  then much to my amazement I found myself yelling to Jason,

“Jason help!“

Quickly Jason said “hold your rod up 12 o’clock high and start reeling in the line”. Anxiously  I did as I was instructed. All along, having lost so many “hits” before, I was fearful this was all going to be for naught. Slowly ...  ...  slowly I pulled in the line as Jason moved toward what appeared as a monstrous brown trout; net in his hand, he reached down and captured the guy.

I was quite pleased, to say the least. It was the largest ever that I had caught fly fishing. And it was a beautiful fish.

“My Fish”

I looked over at my fishing mate and she equally was having as good a time - although she did not land a fish - she had three nice strikes  on her line and I think has learned for the future what process to follow.

It’s an amazing experience that you really don’t understand until you try it one time. And then I think you understand or appreciate what comes from the calmness of the water, the still air and the focus on one task. You - if like me - won’t find much more serenity than this. I think if I were to focus on one aspect of it, I would have to say it’s more the focus on what you’re doing that comes to mind from so many other tasks waiting for myself.

Jason’s Short Thesis on Fly Fishing.

This is copyrighted material by Jason so don’t be planning on cutting and pasting and creating your own little booklet and then passing it out to your friends as your own. Though, Not a bad idea! 

Casting made simple -
Hold your arms close to the body. Move the casting arm hand up to by the ear. Strike down, flicking wrist and to stop at waist or 3 o’clock. Easy peesie.

One.  When walking through the water, stride with your feet across the rocks, don’t step directly on the rocks. You’ll find the rocks extremely slippery, and I emphasize extremely. 

Two.  Plan to spend 15 to 30 minutes in one spot before you begin to move. Move upstream from where you were and begin to target a particular location that you’re thinking or had seen your prize. Bubbles, seeing a fish come up for food are two good examples of where a catch might be.

Three. The “simple” overhead cast should be sufficient. That should be accompanied by a roll cast to improve your line. That will make the fish more likely to go after the fly in as much as it will see it more naturally floating down stream. 

Four. Plan on changing the fly about every 15-20 minutes, or say, 10-12 casts to a particular area. Learn how to set 2 flies on a line. (My strike was to such a line of 2.) Its important to be able to knot  the fly, standing in the river ... pole under arm. I’d suggest some practicing before hand. 

I didn’t do this, but I did observe Jason to pick up a rock and look to see what was underneath it. I’ve read about that technique but I’m not sure that I understand it enough, or it’s possible I haven’t fished enough to get to that degree of finesse. In any event, it was pretty cool watching him study what was flying around out there in nature.

Heritage. Not all of us can be blessed with having a grandfather teaching you from early days to learn to fly fish. It also helps to be five minutes away from where are you going to fly fish. Making it so convenient. Right down the street from the “Big Y” in the Town of Lee.

If you are the guide, it’s nice to have qualities such as patience, and to be a good instructor. Not all of us have those two attributes to successfully pull together, with the background and fly fishing experience Jason possesses. 

Making Your Own Arrangements

Desirous of your own guide? Contact - in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, USA

Berkshire Rivers Fly Fishing

1 413 446 5147

And, after you remove the waders from the cold stream - that you have been standing in for hours -then its time for a -

Cocktail
Hot Apple Cider with splash of Rum
Appetizer: toasted bread, slice of cheese
Music: Blue Monk, Thelonious Monk

Constantine

Gin

Gin And The Like

I’ve been thinking about “Gin” lately. If you read online “Difford’s Guide”, you’ll see Gin is popping up frequently. Similar to the way Rye Whiskey has been.

So I started sketching out what little I knew about Gin and researching a little bit.  It really cinched it for me the other night at The Marine Room in La Jolla, California when Master* Barman Dan made me a NOLET Gin Martini. (Almost more interestingly, my date that evening had a Mariner Cocktail - Dan took pains to point out the “gold luster” in this handsome cocktail. )

                  * Over 20 years of  cocktail creation and you are designated “Master”.

I paid a little bit more attention to my Martini than maybe I normally do and was surprised at the taste that I was sensing and tasting.

I can’t say that Gin is new to me. I’ve enjoyed it for the most part in a Negroni, or as a Gimlet, and sometimes straight with just a slice of lime. A friend, Joe appreciates the Vesper. I had the pleasure a few years back of experiencing the Dutch Genever, and in my travels to the House of Bols museum was able to learn more about Genever. It is the precursor to Gin.  So the exploration of Gin is new to me.  Gin’s rise to such greater prominence made me feel like I needed to write about it.

For me I’ve come to categorize Gin into four subcategories.

  Genever            Old Tom               London Dry                    Botanical

(Under each of these I’ve listed some examples of the different brands of Gin that fall under these subcategories.)

Bols Genever      Ransom             Tanqueray                      Nolet

                            Old Tom            Beefeaters                      Citadelle

                                                      Gordon’s

                                                      Bombay Sapphire

Characterized as -
Malty                   Sweet                Dry (not sweet)             Floral

   Not included are Plymouth Gin and Navy Strength, Sloe Gin.

** Proof. In the United Kingdom and elsewhere you’ll find your favorite Gin will be a higher proof than that sold in the USA.

   The Marine Room at High Tide

Cocktail

Gimlet
2 ounces Nolet Gin
.75 oz. fresh lime juice
.75 oz. crafted simple syrup (1.5)
Garnish - twist of lime

Appetizer - Campari tomatoes lightly salted, or oregano
Tunes - “That Old Black Magic”

Constantine

Photo The Marine Room website

C's Bar - The Test

Cs Bar - The Test

C’s List & Numbered Card
Background - Dual 19 Vintage 60s LP Player

I was at C’s Bar the other day, he jokes he's going to put a name plate on the back of the chair. He was in a good mood; always a practical attribute for a bartender.

Seated to my right was a pretty girl. 

I winked.  She smiled.

He's got a nice place I've been there frequently perhaps, too frequently. 
As I said, I seem to have my own chair.

“Whilst” this time he did not make the Top Fifty list, he’s come close from time to time. 
https://www.worlds50bestbars.com/fifty-best-bars-list-2019/?ist=1

He looked up and nodded. Normally just saunters over and says Negroni tonight? 

Negroni Cocktail Created 1919
Courtesy of Campari Group

or whiskey? Tonight was different than other nights. He reached over and placed before me a pewter cup.  And then another and then another. So, I sat back and waited to see what he's going to be doing. We've been going through this routine for a good number of years. It's surprising the common interests we have. 



Our discussions will revolve around some repair I'm making or tool I need. Or local politics, state politics, national politics, back to local politics, ad infinitum.

Sometimes we get a little esoteric. Surprisingly because of our age and because the Great War was 100 years ago. His father and my father both served in the Great War. And both served in western France in the area of Verdun and Meuse-Argonne in 1918 to 1919. He had recently paved the way for me as he had traveled to Verdun, Reims, all over the Western Front as part of the Queen Elizabeth II Grand Tour of western France. In honor of the 100 years. With his advice and travel materials my girlfriend and I traveled about 3 months later, following in his footsteps.

 Both of us honoring our fathers.

Quite extraordinary, maybe I'll write about that some more.

He had recently been on another journey, seems like he's always journey-ing; and this time he had impressed us with a Berry cocktail that he had learned. And he  was making  a drink my girlfriend easily bought into. A berry cocktail with bubbles. And she liked this cocktail.

But I digress. Tonight he had chosen for taste testing, i.e. the five  pewter cups. He brought out the cups each with a number taped to the side as 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5. 

Pewter Cup

 He  pushed over towards me a piece of paper and a pencil and said, “tell me what you think?” He went on to say “these are your typical whiskeys you drink. So tell me which one you like best and which one you like least”.  I presumed to apply some of my wine sensing and tasting skills I sniffed. Then I would add a little water. Following that I would just barely take a sip; let it rest on my palette. Then I'd make notes to myself smooth, smokey.

Over time tastes mature, some might say degrade. I had been influenced by Nicki BeLer,  who with his brother Buzz created The Prime Rib of Washington DC, USA,   Baltimore Maryland and Philadelphia Pennsylvania. I had worked with Nicki at his father and his restaurant in Williamsburg Virginia as a young man. Nicki introduced me to Antonio y Cleopatra cigars, Cutty Sark whiskey, and a clothing store by the name of Earl N. Levitt.

Nick had great taste in women and, as witnessed by The Prime Rib restaurants that he opened. I recently had the opportunity to work with my cousin Buzz and the staff there in Washington, DC.  It was an extraordinary experience. I got to know some really great people and  was greatly influenced by their skills, their humor, their knowledge and most of all their friendliness. People like Tom, David, Bobby, Marilyn, Santee, and others. 

 But I digress and I've lost my place here. Let's get back to being with Mister C at his Bar.

So having been raised on Cutty Sark over the years my tastes have changed and he had different ones in the well. He has quite an inventory in the Bar; many times catering to his private party crowd.

Tonight would be different.Tonight it was just me. So I began the laborious task of smelling, tasting, sipping noting and eventually got to a conclusion. I said "OK here's my number one choice". Following that Mister C brought out Dewars. I said here's my second choice pretty tight runner up to my first; much to my surprise he brings out Old Smuggler. My third choice was Glenlivet..  And my fourth choice was Grants. Much to my surprise. My fifth choice was a ringer bourbon that he thru in, sly b****** that he is, Wasmunds.

All in all it was an enjoyable and refreshing change of pace from sitting at the bar and nursing one particular drink. I learned quite a bit from the experiences. I learned that  -   as we hear quite often  --  price is not an indicator of taste. Marketing drives up the price of your bottle. 

Conclusion

In conclusion.  What I would impart to you is that absent “a fat wallet”, it behooves you to do a little research on what you're buying making sure that what you're buying for yourself and what you're serving your guests provides an opportunity for them to explore their own tastes and more particularly that it meets their needs. So if it's a younger crowd, be sure to have Makers Mark on hand cause that's all they seem to drink, with ginger . And if it's an older wiser crowd, chill that red wine a little bit before serving and also making sure you decant it.

I have 2 different types of Scotches;  2 different types of gins, in order that  people can choose what they prefer not just what I have on hand.

I became spoiled almost a year ago when I would go to the The Lombardy Hotel's Venetian Lounge & Bar and then, Nathan seeing me walk through the velvet draped doorway would begin to get out the makings for my Negroni. So that's pretty much the scenario that Mister C follows anticipating what I'm going to drink.

But tonight he really outdid himself and went that extra mile so I left a ten ($10) on the bar for the enjoyable evening I had taste testing 3 blends and one single malt & that bourbon. So that's my story. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did, that evening with Mister C.

And don't forget.      Drink responsibly.

For tonight -

Cocktail: Dewars straight, splash of spring water, no ice.

Appetizer: Smoked almonds, no salt.

Music: Stan Getz jazz, "Getz/Gilberto" 1964 played on vintage vinyl

Ice Version 2.07

Ice Version 2.07

I have been hard at work and have travel experiences to write about. Such as how to tour Bordeaux Left bank wine experiences. Or the joy of “Marc”. However, the point today is an update to ICE.

Yes, we are back to trying to make clear ice. Which I became re-infatuated with on my recent trip to bars in Japan.

Simply put^{, f.n. 1,} these following steps will get you a pretty clear ice cube or block, sometimes with some star pattern,

1.       Use distilled water

2.       Boil the distilled water twice.

3.       Fill your cube tray, or block with the distilled, twice boiled water.

4.       Wrap the tray or block with a thick cloth or towel, something that will delay the water from freezing,  the aim to delay the freezing process for as long as possible.

So in essence, the theory is that you use distilled water, boiled 2X and you slow the freezing process. I am not going to get into the chemistry or physics behind this molecular process.

Don’t want to go to this trouble?  Consider the guidance by Difford’s Guide (diffordsguide.com) on their recommendation for an ice machine. And expect to pay a couple thousand Euros. 

f.n. 1  My advisory team is comprised of 1 Physics Professor and 2 Chemists. That’s how complicated it is!

Ice block “resting” before scoring. 

As far as cubes go, I prefer the very large cubes, having watched Ann Marie, of Halifax Nova Scotia Speakeasy “The Middle Spoon Desserterie and Bar”. There she was  hand-chipping an ice block to make a custom-made cube, I now waste my time fooling around with large blocks of ice, which I cut into cubes (score the block with a saw or serrated knife) and then polish off with my Japanese Ice chipper. It just adds a little panache to my cocktails at a party!

The case for no ice!

I have to say, it was a wakeup call when I was visiting my English relative in California. I asked for ice; he said to me “we don’t have any.” Seriously, I thought. I replied, “No really” and he said, no they don’t use ice.

There are many cultures that do not use ice in their drinks, nor serve liquids very cold. Or abhor drafts. But for some of us in North America, ice is a way of life.  But for those of us who like a little chill, and the luxury of clear ice in a cocktail, I have solved that to my satisfaction. And my girlfriend seems to admire the cubes.

IN THE MEANTIME

To make life more complicated, I just recently ground  a ½ cup of granulated sugar to a finer  grind, which makes “Caster Sugar”. You may ask why I needed  Caster sugar? I am making Oleo-saccharum.  Chemistry again, this will give you a sweet liquor of sugar from which peeled lemon will infuse the sugar with the lemon oil from the rind. More on that later.

But for now, I seek a recipe for Armagnac Infused Fresh Plum. 

As I continue to work on my Oleo-Saccharum.

Une Petite Rouge Porte du Paris. The Little Red Door of The Marais in Paris.

Little Red Door, LE MARAIS en Paris

The Place
This is a small, atelier bar. A delightful menu of their own drinks with made up names, representing different countries. Not to say that you can’t order your usual cocktail of what

The Little Red Door
Paris, France

you’d like. They do have an extensive inventory and one could imagine almost any drink being created.

The location of the bar is in the 4e. Arrondissement, for which many people know of as LE MARAIS.

Who To See
The staff are wonderful, even the bouncer was a delightful person.  Can you imagine you’re waiting in line outside and it’s chilly and he’s bringing you hot cider as you wait for entrance into the bar. That’s right, it can be standing room only later in the evening. Our wait was only maybe 20 minutes. And well worth the wait. 

For our first evening it was Marie and Sarah, I think of them as creating “witch craft”.  Louie and a second unnamed wonder worker served, interpreted and made jokes .... between the four + “the bouncer” they created an enchanting evening. Everyone in this small place seemed enchanted. 

In The Well

We were served by two gentlemen. They carried out their responsibilities with great tact, skill and enthusiasm. Bartenders, so much to my surprise, were both women. And those two women worked themselves to death that night behind the bar; they were so adept, so quick, so thorough even when challenged to create a drink using an unusual ingredient – MASTICHA – a Greek Pine like liquor. You would see them on a ladder,  climbing onto the counter all in the effort to find the correct bottle. All of which they use their magic to turn out a special drink you request. 

The Tunes
Their playlist very much added to the rhythm of the bar, one of the best playlists I have come across in a long time. Just the appropriate beat and just the right volume.

The Patrons
A very young crowd of professionals. Many young women out for an evening by themselves as a little “ladies party“. But there were some of us mature people who clearly more greatly appreciate what a fantastic bar this is.

The secret behind the Little Red Door?

There’s no sign.  One  just needs to know the address and you’ll see the little red door recessed behind an entranceway. Correspondingly, look for Barney (Bernard?), the Bouncer –  ex French Army.  He cannot be missed. You actually don’t go through the little red door, it’s the door on the side. You wouldn’t even imagine it being a door. So even though, the crowd is a telltale sign.

Note - as we left, Louie handed me a business card size foldout of other bars in Paris we might enjoy. WHO does that?

A bientot .....

Cocktail
Boite La Marianne
Gin
Cherry wine
Grappa or vodka infused with fresh blueberries
Masticha or Ricard or Anise- just a little
Adjust to your tast
Served in a coupe, chilled

Appetizer - sea salted wafer with Brie
Music - une peu Paul Simon

Constantine

A Martini With Dad

A Martini With Dad  

“I at age about 10 or so, started it -  

You take an old fashion glass or a whiskey glass and fill it with large ice , no small shards. To that you add to about 3/4 up the glass - stopping only briefly to add a little VERMOUTH. Thus, began my, usually weekly, experience with my dad grilling steaks on a weekend. I learned how to make a superb martini - at least according to him. I got a lot of practice since it wouldn't be just limited to one as he grilled and talked.

But those talks were a lifetime of education for me. Actually, I learned more about finance, economics, world history, you can almost name any subject my dad had some level of expertise on. And during that time, standing there, martini on the rocks in one hand and a grilling tool on the other, he would talk with me about life. And that's how I learned about how to make a martini. I also learned how to grill. That man was nowhere to be found on a weekend, except behind the grill!“

…

Thus, began the solemn funeral oration of a son to his father. As  you might imagine, it caught me off guard. I could not understand why there was a young  man standing at the lectern, in the front of the church at the funeral of his father, William,  reading to us about how to make a Martini.

Patience is a wonderful thing. As I patiently sat there listening to what he said, I understood and began to realize where he was going, and the tears came to my eyes as they do now, as I listened to a son speak of his father. It was unusual to say the least, but it was an unusual day in an unusual time and all that's needed to be said.

However, for me I'll never forget this heart rendition of how a young man spoke of his father's passing so eloquently.

COCKTAIL

Martini

6 parts Gin

1 part Vermouth

Strain into a chilled martini glass, twist of lemon, or alternatively serve it on the rocks.

Appetizer - sliced grilled sirloin steak on crouton.

Music – “Don't  Get Around Much Anymore.”  Duke Ellington jazz piece.

History of the Martini. It is  reportedly back to 1863, an Italian vermouth maker marketed a brand called Martini. Alternately, the Occidental Hotel of San Francisco makes claim to a cocktail named Martinez.

Sources IBA and Wikipedia cocktails.