FEUERZANGENBOWLE Experience at the Melounge Lounge Bar Ritz Carlton

The Fire Tongs Punch

Christkindlmarkt Strasbourg France
Tourist Office Photo

As my girlfriend and I prepared for the Christkindlmarkt tour of Austria, France and Germany I read about the mulled wine and Feuerzangenbowle practice taking place during the winter and at the markets where shoppers and revelers treat themselves to mulled wine. In very special events,  the mulled wine with sugar cone is lit on fire to add to the ingredients. So, in search of both the European Christmas Market experience  and the Feuerzangenbowle, we set out on the adventure. I had read of the Wien Ritz Carlton's roof top experience and noted something about the opportunity to experience the "Feuerzangenbowle". 


The anticipation began as we stepped out on the Christmas-decorated trolley in front of our Accors' Adagio Wien Hotel headed - dressed and hat 'n gloved for the weather -  for the Ritz!

Wien Christmas Trolley

Wien, or Anglicized, Vienna at the Ritz-Carlton – situated on the "Ring” road with that rooftop bar – Christkindlmarkt. In winter – what a delight, decorated for Christmas and a string quartet of classical music – – – bows and greenery. Throngs of people dressed for the opera. Women in seamed "stockings" and dressed to the hilt for cocktails overlooking the skyline of Vienna.

On our first visit, it was a line to get onto the elevator to reach the Christkindlmarkt on the top of the hotel. Yes, its own little market. And drinks too! 

Reflecting back - we met, Ritz's PR Manager Stefanie on our first journey to the Ritz when we stood in line for the elevator, which took us to the top floor in the open venue, all of green. A view overlooking the city and its highlight Saint Stephen’s Cathedral.

It gave us a view of all of the energy at night. Stefanie, "cooly" dressed, tall as I recall was overseeing the delight of the guests gathered on the rooftop. The Ritz pays careful attention to its guests. Well,  our disappointment that there was no Feuerzangenbowle or Fire Tongs Punch (more on that later) was dismissed when the lovely public relations manager said it would be later in the month and gave me her card to contact her when we returned. Which we did. Thus my introduction to the Melounge Lobby Manager Iris. We met our last evening in Wien. Iris, lovely young lady, petite, ash blond as I recall, was fashionably dressed in this lounge just off the lobby.  She so very Viennese - polite, practical and very social. Iris surprised us with her story of being assigned to go to the Santa Monica California Ritz Carlton. I told her I could only imagine the contrast ... Wein’s women in heels and fur to Southern California where people are universally in their Lululemon outfits or surfer shorts. 

Das Zuckerhut

If you don't know it,  let me spell it out for you. Picture a Yule Log in a blazing fire. And then and then you take 160 proof Austrian rum soaked in a Zuckerhut (sugar hat, cone shaped) and then at that magic moment you light it on fire. What a blaze! We sat back a little in our seats when the barman first lit the Zuckerhut. Usually an event for a crowd of skiers or a group coming in from the cold, we were true to that, i.e., the cold. We arrived a tad early, Austrians are proud of promptness to the time you schedule! A major contrast to my Greek upbringing. So the Senior Barman rushed to accommodate our early entrance. Later to learn that not anyone at the Ritz is permitted to make the Feuerzangenbowle. It calls for experience, tact and skill – along with a fire extinguisher close at hand. A little research and the comment frequently made to have a fire extinguisher on hand, leads me to better understand why. It also explained the inability to purchase the Strohs 80 at the airport; it is forbidden to take onto the plane.

However the highlight of this lengthy complicated process is the lighting of the Zuckerhut. The cone is held on a narrow pan designed to hold a cone but with small holes in the bottom. As the cone burns the melted caramel starts falling into the mulled wine. Sometimes little islands of caramelized sugar remain on fire sitting on the mulled wine. 

At my photographer's, <<S>>, Christmas party I was telling Margaret about this and before I could get into the actual details of the event that we had participated in Wien,   she enthusiastically exclaims 

 “you mean for the Feuerzangenbowle?” 

Much to my surprise and delight she too had experienced it and agreed with me that it is a real treat.

Melounge Lobby Feuerzangenbowle
 The Ritz Carlton

So for those venturous, here is the recipe, which you’ll need to adapt.

Or better yet, drop by and see Iris, promptly, at the Ritz Carlton for a treat at the Melounge Lounge Bar. 

Recipe adapted from “Food.com” -

2 liter of Austrian Merlot 1 cinnamon stick
Cardamom -1 Allspice - 1
2 oranges organic      2 lemons organic
5 cloves     dash of ginger
2 cups brown rum 54 proof or greater (Strohs 80)
Garnish with orange rind-shaped 4-leaf clover in a sugar crusted mug

Vielen Dank Frauen Stefanie, Iris und Herr Bar Keeper 

Drink – Melounge Specialty “Chocolate Old Fashioned”

   While you’re waiting for the concoction to brew (30 or so minutes)

Appetizer – Kilians Schinken-Kaser Toast (Kilians ham & cheese toast)

Music – Mozart, of course, this is Austria!

Fröhe Weinachten

Paris, Le Marais - a venue for Bataclan

13onze15
Le Marais, the 4éme (arrondissmont), borders the central part of Paris. An older area, once or still the Jewish center, arts, the gay community. It’s a very fashionable arrondissmont in Paris.
The Bataclan reopens the evening of November 12^th with a concert by Sting.

Like all, well almost all, of Paris, you feel such artistic delight from a walk from the île de la Cité, the Seine, and from the meandering streets, alleys and paths away from the beautiful squares once the 16^th to 17^th century stately homes of the French aristocracy.

The architecture is beautiful. The boulevards so fashionable. The weekly Saturday morning market along the wide median, just down from the Sabot Metropolitain - such an experience!

Mon Cherie and I are adventurous travelers, and we appreciate the unique, the “off the path” ... so on our first trip – staying in Le Marais with its access to Bar Candelaria, and a walk away from the Seine, Notre Dame, we could not pass it up. We were not disappointed – one bit. Candelaria was fun, exciting, if you can find it behind the white unadorned door in the Taqueria! Bastille and its monument, the squares, and Place de Vosges.  The Boulevard Richard Lenoir. Looking out from our window of the Citadines Bastille Marais Paris apartment-hotel, the 6-story Belle Époque apartment across the Boulevard, beyond the tree lined median. At Christmas time, we saw one apartment with randomly blinking lights (so French) changing to a different color on the tree. We were a jaunt from the “Casino super Marché” with its cheese, bagette, French wine and Champagne, and Aperol. Yes, Champagne.

Where Boulevard Richard Voltaire crosses Richard Lenoir, by happenstance that Friday night, arriving from Strasbourg via Gare Nord, coming down from the Metropolitan...well, ok, I was lost. I did not, could not take a picture of the scene. Nor would I write about it. But a year later I find myself now more reconciled.

Photo - BBC World News

We crossed or tried to cross past barriers, past bouquets of flowers placed on the barricades, the sidewalk neatly strewn, filling up the open space even going across the street to the median strip. Blue lights flashed from police vans, cars and cycles with grim-faced gendarmes holding the scene.

We had come across the Bataclan music theater, where 90 young people had been murdered, hunted down room to room and massacred in cold blood – for no other reason than that of the nearby “Charlie Hebdo newspaper” massacre. Twelve murdered by ISIS terrorists on 7 January 2015. Only this visit had only been nights since the Bataclan “event” on November 13^th, 2015 in the middle of a concert.

We paused, trying to take in and understand the scene, cordoned off, throngs of people standing on the side, staring silently at the scene.

Acknowledging what we observed, we left to continue down the street to our hotel – to take a drink, have a bite, and reflect with deep sadness for the French people.

A year later, am I finally able to write my thoughts.

Tonight I will have a “Pastis" in remembrance of those harmed, of the families and of the loved ones. I’ll listen to one of the melancholy jazz pieces by Marcel Zanini. Sadly realizing those dead will never visit Le Petit Journal to hear Marcel play.

Mon couer Le Marais – we will be back. Again and again.

Constantine

Note.

On the evening of the 13^th  of November 2015, ISIS terrorists had infiltrated to Europe to attack Paris - the Bataclan, just down the street the La Bonne Bière Cafe, Cosa Nostra, Carillon, Le Petit Cambodge, La Belle Èquipe and some distance away, still on the east of Paris, Stade de France. One hundred thirty were murdered that evening at the six sites. 100's wounded and many others who will ever be traumatized. Gendarmes reported seeing cell phones ringing with "Mama" as the caller - gone unanswered. Updated 14.11.15 from NYT "Paris is Quiet but Resolute as It Mourns on Anniversary of Attack".



En francais

13onze15 Paris, Le Marais, un lieu pour Bataclan

Le Marais, a la 4me (arrondissement) borde la partie centrale de Paris. Une zone plus ancienne, une fois ou encore le centre juif, les arts, la communauté, C’est un quartier très a la mode a Paris.

Ici, comme en tout de Paris, vous vous sentent une joie artistique. Une promenade d’ile de la cite, la Seine, et des rues sinueuses, des allées, et vers les belles places. La zone tenait les maisons d’aristocratie dans les siècles seizième et dix-septieme.

L’architecture est belle. Les boulevards sont tellement a la mode. Le marche hebdomadaire du samedi matin le longe de la large médiane juste en bas du Sabot Metropolitain- quelle expérience.
Ma chérie et moi sont aventureux et nous apprécions l’unique, l’hors de chemin…

Alors, sur notre premier voyage - en restant avec des amis son accès au Bar Candalaria, et une promenade de la Seine, Notre Dame, Nous ne pouvions pas passer-le. Nous ne serions pas desappointes – un morceau. Le Candalaria était amusant, excitant, si vous le pouvez le trouver- derrière la porte en le Taquevia Bastille et son monument.
Boulevard Richard Lenoir. Regardant par notre fenetre des Citadines Bastille Marais Paris, l’appartement de la Belle Epoque, avec ses six etages, en face du boulevard, au dessus de la mediane bordée d’arbres. A noel, nous avons vu un appartement avec des lumières clignotantes ( tellement français) en train de changer a une couleur différente sur l’arbre. Nous étions une promenade du Casino supermarché avec son fromage, ses, beignets, son vin français et sa champagne et l’Aperol. Oui, la champagne !

Ou Boulevard Richard Voltaire traverse Boulevard Richard Lenoir, bien par hasard ce vendredi soir, en arrivant du Strasbourg via la Gare Nord, descendant du métropolitain, alors j’etais perdu.
Ne n’ai fait n’ai pu fait, prendre une photo de la scène, ni j’en aurais écrire de ca. Mais une année plus tard, je me trouve maintenant plus reconcilie.

En traversant, ou en essayant de traverser , en passant des barrières, en passant des bouquets de fleurs placées sur les barricades, le trottoir soigneusement jonche, ont rempli l’espace ouverte meme a travers la rue a la bande médiane . des lumières bleues clignotantes des voitures de police, des voitures et des motos avec des gendarmes sombres tenant la scène.
Nous avions rencontre le théâtre musical Bataclan, ou quatre-vingt-dix jeunes personnes avaient ete assassines. Massacres en sang froid et chasses, pièce, salle- pour n’aucun raison d’autre que le journal proche Charlie Hebdo, douze massacres a 7 juin 2015.
Ce visite n’avait seulement –des nuits depuis l’evenement Bataclan a 13 novembre 2015 en milieu du concert.


Nous avons fait une pause pour prendre et comprendre la scène, boucle, des foules de gens, juste debout sur le cote regardant silencieusement sur la scène.

Reconnaissant ce que nous avons observe, nous sommes partis pour continuer dans la rue a notre hôtel- pour prendre une boisson, un morceau a manger, et pour réfléchir avec la tristesse très profonde pour les gens français.
Seulement un an plus tard, je suis capable d’ecrire mes pensées.

Ce soir je prendrai un pastis en remembrance de ceux qui ont ete blesses, et de leurs familles, et de leurs proches. Je vais écouter a un des œuvres jazz de par Marcel Zanini.
Malheureusement réalisant que ceux qui sont morts ne visiteront jamais le Petit Journal pour écouter Marcel a jouer.

Le Bataclan rouvre la soirée de la douzième avec un concert par Sting.
Mon cœur de Marais, nous reviendrons, encore et encore.

Constantine

Note finale.

La soirée de la treizième, les terrorists ISIS avaient infiltre en Europe pour attaquer Paris- le Bataclan, le café La Bonne Biere, et quelque distance, toujours au l’est de Paris, un totale de cent trente personnes ont ete tuées. Cent blessées, et beaucoup d’autres qui seront toujours traumatisées.

A Conversation with Chef James D. Everett II, a Chef, CEO ... Cabinetmaker

A Conversation with Chef James D. Everett II

 a Chef, CEO, Entrepreneur and Cabinet Maker

In 1984, David began to feel more and more at home in a professional kitchen. Moving to Orlando, he took on a series of challenges for Walt Disney World, highlighted by his tenure at The Contemporary Resort Hotel and the opening of EPCOT Center. After leaving Disney, David took the position of Special Events Chef for The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.  David next joined the Fisher Hotel Group and opened Chardonnay, the signature restaurant in The Park Terrace Hotel in Washington, D.C. David's instinct and passion for cooking led Phyllis Richmond, food critic of The Washington Post, to write that David's food was "impressive. There is attention to careful cooking and quality.. Outstanding both on the tongue and on the palate". He first took on the opening of La Rive in New Jersey followed by the refurbishing of The Georgetown Inn in Washington, D.C. In 1990 David had the opportunity to become Executive Chef at The Dining Room at Ford's Colony in Williamsburg Virginia. In 1992, during his more than thirteen year tenure David presided over the addition of two new casual restaurants, a café.

Since then David has opened the Blue Talon Bistro, the Trellis Bar and Grill, the Dog Street Pub, Blackbird Bakery the Hair of the Dog Bottle Shop, and the Colonial Capitol Bed & Breakfast – where he generally can be found each morning creating breakfast for the guests. Source: Excerpted from Blue Talon website.

The following is an addition by author.

Chef is recognized for his woodworking talents, but says he will not do Windsor Chairs. 

Seated at table, butcher block table top. Manager Geri seats me; she’ll get Chef.

Thinner, full beard, serious, quiet introspective.

We talk about the passion for life, food, drink and cabinet-making.

Dave Everett, Chef

Constantine: (I had been alerted to Chef’s woodworking talent earlier from some staff after I inquired where they got this or that cabinet piece.) Woodworking, how did that come about? Is that a release from your role as entrepreneur?

Chef: Frustrated cabinet maker. We built all three bars and many cabinets in the restaurants and bakery. The building of the Blue Talon kind of kicked it off.  There were particular desires I had regarding the carpentry or cabinets that being the inspiration … it led off from the Blue Talon. There were some pieces I wanted built and felt I wanted to create them myself. It’s evolved from one restaurant to the next. Ultimately, of late, my cabinet building has included longtime friend and Chef de Cuisine Scott Hoyland’s first floor home where he resides with Louise. A totally remodeled European kitchen … did I mention the onion bin under the European fridge? The banquette for the kitchen? Woodworking yes, but I draw the line at  building a “Windsor Chair”.

Constantine: Cooking at home, what is your favorite, or fall back for a dinner?      

Chef: I don’t get fancy at home; it can be a simple dish of pasta or a grilled chicken breast I put on the grill.

Constantine: I once inquired of Marcel Desaulniers, Chef and original owner of the Trellis Restaurant, if he knew his Myers Briggs Personality Type (MBTI). He just smiled and pulled out a card from his wallet --- ISFJ, or something like that. I was surprised at the Introvert, but after some thought realized it was likely a characteristic of artists & chefs. Thoughts?

Chef:  An INFJ. One of the rarest types, like 1% of the population.  I am very comfortable with my type and how it allows me to enhance my success. To some extent, we’ve explored MBTI with some of the staff. We have not explored it as much as it seems I’d like, now with 3 restaurants, a bakery and the Bottle Shop, and lately the Bed and Breakfast.

I am intuitive by nature & it’s been an asset to my business sense. I see a picture in my mind of what I want the dish to look like, or how the cabinetry will appear on the floor filled with wine bottles. I can visualize both a functional piece for storage and a marketing tool for the wine located for viewing by the  patrons as they walk by.

Constantine: BTW, Marcel was genuinely complimentary of you – as was Connie Desaulniers, when I joked about a “non-compete clause”  and your agreement to the MAD enterprise. [Marcel Desaulniers is the original owner of Trellis Restaurant and after a short retirement, he and his wife, Connie opened – with Chef Everett’ s agreement – the Mad About Chocolate patisserie and bistro].

Chef:  Bringing people to town, that is good for all of us. I want to support other restaurateurs who also have the passion for food. It’s expensive to open a restaurant, and to support the guy in the back who is sweating his heart out for patrons, it only makes sense. It builds business for all of us in this industry.

Constantine: What is your management philosophy?

Chef:  It’s not complicated. Hire good people. Let them do their job.

I work to let them understand what I want and then let them excel at what they can do. I am not here to micromanage.  I want to make them valuable to the operations. Exploiting someone’s expertise enables a better operation. Over time, I believe I have become more comfortable in giving people more latitude.

I like what we do,  very … very lucky. All of our backgrounds, Adam, Scott have led us to a higher level of service. The rules (for success in the restaurant business) don’t change because it’s a bistro and not a formal dining room. At the Fords Colony, we created fine dining. We managed to expand on the fine dining experience and further expanded service to include such as a “café”.

 Constantine:  Blue Talon fire. Do you recall some of your reactions from when you were notified; then thru the process of re-opening.

Chef:  December 6, my youngest daughter’s birthday. My first call was to my insurance agent. Followed by my building contractor.

 It helped that we’d been open 4 years and had a track record with the contractor and his crew; as well, Tom Tingle, architect. We were able to reopen in 3 months, beating the 6 months that was projected.

Constantine: At the time I heard that you had gone to some effort to  outplace many if not all of your staff. [ I recall hearing compliments of Chef that he took care of his staff.]

Chef:  Yes, we were lucky. Marcel Desaulniers picked up some at the Trellis Restaurant, the contractor put others to work. Colonial Williamsburg and other businesses in town helped us out.

One unintended consequence of the Blue Talon fire was  that my wife and I  were able to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Washington DC. An extraordinary fete for an anyone  in the hospitality industry … New Year ’s Eve, big event.

Constantine: I saw you recently at the Beer Festival – which it appears was a DOG Street, Blue Talon Bistro  and Trellis event. How do you take time for yourself, given the three restaurants, bakery, bottle shop and B&B, to recover?

Chef:  Sometimes a vacation, but more often it’s in conjunction with some other work-related event. Outer Banks, Cape Charles are some of the places I may get to with my family.  (I remarked that I thought he’d be in France frequently.)  Last time, 7 years. Earlier I had the good fortune to be at Cakebread Cellars in Napa during the harvest time. Some weeks.

Constantine: Chef, entrepreneur, business man, chief executive officer… how would you characterize yourself

Chef: I am lucky guy that has great people to work with. I see myself as a visionary ….Regarding our expansion, similar to the Fords’ Colony Dining Room, well… beyond the fine dining we took it to full  scale of food operations.

After the Blue Talon, I initially wanted to have the bank building, next door to the Trellis Restaurant. We were steered to Marcel’s  Trellis Restaurant, so  we moved on that location. Later the bank building (DOG Street Pub) we incorporated into the group.

The bottle shop came about as a result of the location becoming vacant. With DOG Street Pub adjacent, I jumped at the space and we created the Hair of the Dog Bottle Shop. When I saw the rental sign up for what is now the Bottle Shop, I could visualize it in my mind. Same as a dish, I can see it in my mind. I “live” it my head.

A distillery could be a lot of fun… I am a lucky guy. I have a great staff.

Consulting, I have done a little and like it. Definitely I see a change in myself from when I was younger.

Rolling all the attributes together … permits me to see a design. Like with the fabrication of restaurant equipment coming out of Texas. Or in building the kitchen wall, it’s an accent for the sheet rock!  Blue prints are more to meet the city requirement; I know what we want to do and build it.  I want the electrical outlets … 36” up from the floor not 12”. Water! When we did the Blue Talon I wanted no wall space in the kitchen; its racks from the ceiling. That’s how we work.

Plans.  I found some the other day for what I wanted to do. Now, however, I just go and build it. Like,  what Scott and I did in his kitchen for his and Louise’s home. We built a 700 lb. banquet, L shaped to go in the kitchen. We killed ourselves getting the two pieces of the banquette into the house. I won’t do that again. Scott and Louise wanted a European style kitchen, small refrigerator. I designed an onion bin, placing it underneath to support the frig.

Constantine: As he warmed up I could tell from the passion in his voice and in the description of what he and Scott did, it’s a real love for him.

Chef:  Functional, fun to build a wireless onion bin!

Constantine: I asked about the concept of all staff being able to perform multiple functions in the Trellis …..Anecdote of hostess removing finished plate …at cocktails one night my plate had been moved to the side and the hostess just picked it up as she passed by.

Constantine: You host a really fantastic party each summer. Some people have asked why not charge? Or can we make a donation to a charity? It seems to me this is purely your way of saying thank you to your audience. Your take?
(This issue was a much talked about conversation at our table this past June).

 Chef: Picnic event started out as a birthday party for one of my daughters. It started at home in the backyard, grew from neighbors to friends. By the time it got to be about 250 persons gathered around for  burgers, chicken, lobsters crawling the yard, playing games, a band – well, we just decided it was time to move to a larger venue. So it’s evolved to a big event at the Williamsburg Winery site. And now it’s a combination of thank you to staff … celebration. We like doing the party, the “cochon de lait”!     

Constantine: The Trellis has a "bomber drink". What's the backstory? [Chef’s dad was an Air Force pilot.]

Chef:  That was a creation of John’s.

What is your cocktail or liquor?

Chef:  Makers Mark. I have been a bourbon drinker for 35-40 years. Chose bourbon as I recall my mother would order a bourbon drink. In my world, it’s relaxing for Scott and me to get together and talk about food. I enjoy wine. I have done the fall harvest, 2-week term at Cakebread Cellars in Napa 25 years ago. Again,  mixing work and pleasure.

Side comment – seeing a scotch drinker before having dinner. I visualize the  flavor loss in his meal.

Constantine: What makes you laugh?

Chef:  The laughter of children, Slapstick. It’s hard not to smile when you see their strange behavior. When someone is happy, I am happy.

The interview took place in 2015 for submission to the magazine Lucky Peach, a novel foodie mag. 

Constantine BeLer is a writer and blogger. His earlier career in food service began in the kitchen at the Monoosnock Country Club dining room and “19^th Hole” in North Leominster, Massachusetts. He currently blogs at “Liquor, Canapes and … Something else?” Constantine resides in Williamsburg, Virginia, when not investigating bars in Europe.

Credits:
Art Work by Esther BeLer - www.estherbeler.com
Photo - courtesy of Blue Talon Bistro, Williamsburg, Virginia, USA

###

The Cultivation of a Drinker

What do I mean by that? The cultivation of a drinker?

Liquor is not simply  a drink of choice, it represents part of the history of food development, culture and the organic environment through to women & men’s enjoyment.

Such as –

      Grapes = wine

      Wheat = distilled liquor

      Fruit = brandies

      Sugar = rum

      Rice = Saki

            And so on, or as we say in Greece "και το α'λλο"

At a bar, restaurant, or friends home, beyond the liquor bottles, you’ll see a country’s food and culture narrative on display. It’s no accident that some great liquors made from lemons come from Italy’s lemon-growing region. Likewise for others, such as – it was not some accident that the farmers in Normandy, growing apples, to become a dominant player in the apple brandy “Calvados” world.

A little experimentation in life, food and drink behooves us all pitifully when we travel, be it California wine region, Québec’s fruit & vegetable region Ill d’Orléans, or Bavaria and its apples.

So next time you are out and about with your favorite girl, harken up to the bartender and ask “what’s local” … you may be surprised and entertained.

I was in Glasgow’s Palomino Bar when served the barman’s choice of Dalwhinnnie scotch, for which he presented to me in a crystal whiskey glass, warmed with hot water and then towel-dried, before pouring in the dram of scotch whiskey, smooth as silk.

It won’t take long, as my son-in-law discovered on travels to Switzerland and was introduced to the local Appenzeller Alpenbitter. And you’ll be pleased with the fruits of your effort, not only in your choice of drink but the cultural interaction you experience during the search – as you make new friends.

Santé

Boîte

Calvados (warmed glass)

Sliced apple and cheese

France bleu Strasbourg (streamed live)

Harry's Bar Rules

Bar Rules 

After a viewing of the Christmas display at Pari’ Galeries Lafayette grand marche and a stop at the beautiful ornate Opera, my date and I took a stroll down Avenue de l’Opéra to “Sank Roo Doe Noo” to experience the legendary Parisian landmark, Harry’s New York Bar  (1911). Enjoying the mid-day cocktail and reading the bar menu with “Bar Rules”, I realized to myself we should all know the bar rules, so I share them with you. The IBF stands for “International Bar Fly”. 

            “Aside note” - on the US Presidential Election. The bar has polled US citizens since 1924 and, with  the exception of 1976 and 2004, it has correctly called the election of the US President. If interested you can check the status and call them at +33 1 4261 71 14. 

Curious as they may be, these rules from Paris’s first cocktail bar, 1911, Harry’s New York Bar, do serve as a poignant reminder of the essential practices one should approach drinking & socializing. So take heed as you read over these rules, harken to the words and enjoy the festivities.

Harry’s New York Bar, Paris

1. The IBF is a secret and sacred fraternal organization devoted to the up life and downfall of serious drinkers.

2. Members must buy if not at the moment Sometime. What is a decade among friends.

3. Any members of the IBF caught cutting out paper dolls after a  bad night must hand in their resignations.

4. Those that come to the Trap at 5 A. M. and are able to play a ukulele without rehearsal are eligible for life membership.

5. Members bumping their chin on the bar rail in the act of falling are suspended for ten days.

6. Members who have the idea they can wallop Dempsey are notified that there is a plastic surgeon on duty night and day close to the traps.

7. Those seeking cerise cats with purple ears should keep it to themselves. Traps are not zoological gardens.

8. Those sniffling about “the best little women in the world” and starving for another round must pay for it.

9. Remember, nothing is on the house but the roof.

10. Those who decide drinking is a menace are welcome at all times but should just keep quiet.

11. And remember that there are a lot of boys in the rear who might want something.

12. Backslappin after six drinks to be tempered with mercy remember, IBF’s have false teeth.

13. Any members breaking any of the above rule will be penalized drinks to all IBF’s present.

Harry’s New York Bar Paris describes itself as creator of a few of the following – Bloody Mary (1921), Side Car (’31), James Bond (’62), & French 75 (‘ 25).

So fix one of these historic cocktails, sit back, and read the rules once more. 

Harry’s New York Bar, Harry’s Bar, Harry’s, International Bar Flies, Barfly, Sank Roo Doe Noo.     Are registered trademarks of Harry’s New York Bar Paris

Read, Read, Read

Read, Read, Read

Like Vodkas [fn1], there are a great deal of cocktail books out there, all of which propose to tell you how to make a cocktail, and with what ingredients. So how do I separate the wheat from the chaff?

            [Fn 1] Vodka is a tasteless ethanol, typically made from wheat and mostly made by some major establishments. So how does one differentiate one from another? If it’s tasteless and you’re making a complex, fruity martini, like a Cosmopolitan,  does it really matter?

So many books professing to be “new” and “exciting”. 

Embury goes on to define "cocktail"  as:  i. whets the appetite, ii.stimulates the mind, iii. pleases the palette, iv. pleases the eye, v. has sufficient alcohol, and vi. is well iced. However, if you know the secret [fn2], then you too can create your own special drinks.

            [fn 2] David Embury, pages 34-ff: a cocktail consists of a base (50% alcohol), for example vodka; combined with an agent (think lime juice or bitter); and a flavor (think of cranberry juice). Voila! A Cosmopolitan Martini Cocktail.

Frankly, all the cocktails have been pretty much invented. That’s not to keep you from slightly altering a recipe. Say, substituting fresh basil for cucumber and then Voila! change the name.

Strive to be an educated mixologist – not just a “cocktail by trial and error” mixologist (as I once was!)

With that in mind,  I have prepared this review of the books and resources I find to be invaluable to me in researching ingredients, liquors, substitutions, etc. and in the understanding of my own blending of a cocktail, making  my own Grenadine Syrup and bitters or perusing a book just hanging around on my cocktail table from Frau Martina Müller-Frasch of Melia's INSIDE Frankfurt hotel,  “Frankfurt Bar Tales”.

Constantine's Bookshelf
Photo - author.

            Presented here – categorized, are:

Guide to Mixology

The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks. David A. Embury, 1948. A staple on the theory of mixing, ratio of base (liquor) to accents and ingredients. Reviews liquors and includes recipes. A read of his biography is amazing.

Bitters & Shrub Syrup Cocktails – Restorative Vintage Cocktails, Mocktails & Elixirs. Warren Bobrow, 2015. Another how to on the creation of shrubs and bitters. A good tool.

Drunken Botanist, The Plants That Create the World’s Greatest Drinks. Amy Steward, 2013. What plants are used to create what liquors. You’ll want to know.

Cocktail Recipes

The Merchant Hotel Bar Book III.5.  The Merchant Hotel, Belfast. Download free. This is a 198 page beautifully photographed cocktail recipe book categorized with detailed recipes from their 3 bars. Pick one up in Belfast. [Yes that is correct this is a free 198 page, beautiful photos, downloadable cocktail book with detailed ingredients. Did I mention free. Email Merchants and thank them, si’l vous plait.]

Old Mr. Boston Deluxe Official Bartender’s Guide, Leo Cotton, 1935. Classic guide to cocktails and some other resources.

The Savoy Cocktail Book. Harry Craddock, 1930. Classic drink recipe book with substantial information on punches, and other drinks other than the traditional cocktail.

Mixology “MIX”. (ap. Free) Has the ability to search for cocktails by ingredient, name and has the ability to inventory your liquor cabinet.

Resources

Kindred Spirits 2. F. Paul Pacult, 2008. Tool recommended by the Chateau Frontenac barman who uses it as a rating guide to liquors on taste and value. Good tool if you want to know more before you buy; as well as choosing wisely.

The Drunken Botanist. Amy Stewart, 2013. Botanist guide to liquor! Delightful.

Ultimate Guide to  Spirits and Cocktails. Andre Domine, 2008. Don’t be intimidated by its size. Worldwide resource to liquors by nation as well as type. Important for any world traveler.

Rösle Bar Equipment. Rösle. Rösleusa.com. www.rösle.de
Website "Serious Eats, Cocktails and Spirits". Resource for cocktail 101 basics on ice, tools and techniques. www.drinks.seriouseats.com. Michael Dietsch does an outstanding job in teaching of tools, techniques and liquor reviews. An outstanding resource on how to.

Menus

Collect them on site, asking first of course; or download from your favorite bar website.

Pretty picture books, biographies and notables.

Drinking With Men. Rosie Schaap, 2013. Interesting autobiography by a prominent mixologist and writer for the New York Times, International Herald Tribune, and who knows what else.

The Cocktails of The Ritz Paris. Colin Peter Field, 2001.   Colin is the head bartender of the Paris Ritz Hotel’s “Hemingway Bar”. That hotel. That Bar. That Hemingway, who following the liberation of Paris at the end of World War II, pulls up with  half-track load of GI’s and takes them in for champagne! I’d name my bar after him too.

Frankfurt Bar Tales, An Intimate Insider’s Guide. Zinzow, Leo & Hoehne, 2006. The bars of Frankfurt, Germany.

Whiskey Women, The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch, and Irish Whiskey. Fred Minnick, 2013. The role of women in the liquor industry. Who knew?

Appetizers and Cookbooks

Culinaria. Konemann. A series on Greece, Spain, Germany, France and others that includes culture, food, and beverages and wines and liquor information and explanation.

Lucky Peach Magazine. Peter Meehan, published quarterly and online. A chef’s magazine and excellent resource. Complimentary newsletter found at store.lky.ph

Happy Reading!

Cocktail

Blackberry Bramble
1 part gin
 .75 part lemon juice
 .5 part simple syrup
 .5 creme de mure or blackberry liquer
shake ingredients with exception of the de mure, on ice. Pour into rocks glass with fresh large pieces of ice. Drizzle de mure on top and garnish with blackberry and other as you please.  
Appetizer – sea salt sliced avocado, lime side

Music – Marcel Zanini’s “Un Bourbon, Un scotch, Une Biérre” [Apple iTunes]