Chef David Lebovitz’ Recipe for Bitters

I reduced the recipe in half and still enabled me to have a full small bottle of bitters that will last me for sometime. 

The following recipe is extracted from the blog by David Lebovitz. You can find a link to that blog here. https://www.davidlebovitz.com/. 

I heartily encourage the link to or the subscription to David Lebovitz‘s blog. It’s both entertaining, educational and gives you a window into the world of Paris, France. I particularly enjoyed his article that he created when he and his partner moved from one apartment to another apartment in Paris.

I did research getting his approval for the reposting of his blog. I credit him here. Thank you, monsieur Chef David.

Orange Bitters

You can use vodka or whiskey, if you prefer, in lieu of the rum. Note that the higher the proof (ABV), the better the extraction of flavors, so feel free to use any of those spirits with a higher alcohol level. I made the gentian root optional but it adds a husky bitterness that I find really makes the bitters, better. You can find it at herbalists, natural foods stores, or online at Penn Herb, Mountain Rose Herbs, and Etsy. You can also play around with the spices. A bit of cinnamon, a few cloves, or perhaps a bit of star anise could be added. Be sure to filter the mixture through a coffee filter, rather than cheesecloth, which will insure that you won't have little bits of spices in the finished bitters, which will make it cloudy.

Servings 2 cups (500ml)

• 4 large oranges, preferably unsprayed
• 2 cups (500ml) rum, vodka, or another liquor, (see headnote)
• 12 coriander seeds
• 6 allspice berries
• 12 fennel or anise seeds
• 3 cardamom pods, gently crushed
• 1/2 teaspoon dried gentian root , (not powder), optional
• 1 tablespoon caramel, optional (see note at end of recipe)

Cook ModePrevent your screen from going dark

• Preheat the oven to 200ºF (93ºC). Remove the zest of the oranges using a vegetable peeler, and spread them on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven for about 50 to 60 minutes, stirring them once or twice during drying. They don't need to be bone-dry when done, but should have lost most of their moisture and smell orangey. 
• Pour the liquor into a clean medium jar. Add the orange peels and spices. Cover and shake. Let the jar stand in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks, shaking it once daily. 
• Strain the mixture through a coffee filter. Stir in the caramel, if using, then bottle.

Notes

To make caramel: Heat 1/2 cup (100g) of sugar with 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a skillet with a few drops of lemon juice. Cook, stirring only if necessary, until the mixture turns a deep amber color. Remove from heat and add 2 tablespoons of water. (Careful as it may steam and sputter.) Stir until smooth. If necessary, set the pan back over low heat to help dissolve any lumps of caramel. For details on caramelizing, check out my post: How to make the perfect caramel. This will yield a little more caramel than you need, but extra will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks and you can use it to drizzle over ice cream or oatmeal.

Storage: Bitters will keep for at least a year if stored in a cool, dark place.

Note: Bitters bottles, like the one shown, are available on Amazon, Bar Products and at Cocktail Kingdom.

January Twenty-twenty Six. The Cocktail of the Month. The Margo.

 The Margo

Helping Jane at the Bar, A Poorly Made Drink.

        Sometimes people call upon me for advice, dating hints, cooking recipes .... in this case Jane asked my help with what to do if you don't like a cocktail you are served. OK so in all honesty, I had created a magnificent Negroni. Served in one of my House of Bols exclusive collection of Red-Light Bulbs (you get it, Amsterdam!). 

So, as I started my soliloquy ... she became bored and spoke 

"Constantine, can you just write this down for me?"

"Surely", says I.

What to do when the drink you are served is not to your liking?

Send it back!

Send it BACK!

If that is not possible then alter the ingredients. Identify what you don't like, e.g., not sweet enough; add some simple syrup or agave. Too sweet - add some lemon or other neutral ingredient.

You are a paying customer. Do not accept mediocrity. On Christmas Eve I observed  two ladies add ice to their glasses of white wine, apparently warm.

       for goodness sake, send the damn glass back.  How else is the waiter 

and bartender going to know their doing a poor job

Constantine 

The Christmas Morning Buck’s Fizz

Fortunately,

London’s Buck’s Club

for us back in 1921, Malachi “Pat“ McGarry, Master Bartender at the London’s Buck’s  Club created the first Buck’s Club Fizz Cocktail for Christmas morning. And my good friend from London, Richard, advises me it’s  a traditional Christmas morning drink. Happy Christmas to you.

Comprised of two parts champagne to one part orange juice with a twist of orange added. I understand the original recipe included some grenadine and – known only to the bartenders – a secret ingredient  

So we’re gonna go for a chilled champagne flute, to which you add one part orange juice, a bar spoon of grenadine and a twist of orange. Stir and then,  to that you can add your two parts of champagne. 

And there you have it, “Bob’s your uncle”, you’ve completed the task for Christmas morning. But,  other than to give your loved ones a little kiss …….

Happy Christmas

Constantine 

December Cocktail the Month. Wassail.

Wassail that old English, Norman, Welsh 14th. century, really olde alcoholic beverage.  Winter imbibement. It’s been around a really long time!

Recipe For Wassail Punch

2 quarts of apple juice or  apple cider

2 cups of orange juice

1/2 cup of lemon juice – or less, adjust to taste

12 whole cloves

4 cinnamon sticks

One pinch of ground nutmeg

Combine all ingredients. Bring to a simmer. Refrigerate and let it set for 24 hours.

It’s an interesting history on the evolution and origins of the warm winter drink. Likely originated to honour the apple trees, a long time, long time ago. 

And, to be thoroughly candid there are as many recipes as there are varieties of apples. 

Therefore don’t be confused when you hear of such drinks as glugwein, vin Chad, glug, mulled wine, FEUERZANGENBOWLE.  The principle is the same …… wine, fruit juice (usually apple along with more  wine! More often than not you’ll be invited to add, as the Germans refer to it …. mit schuss. Meaning with optional shot, such as dark rum, whiskey, etc. 

FEUERZANGENBOWLE 
Or, Fire Tongs Punch

My favourite, when entertaining, is the Feuerzanganbowle. As you can see it is the traditional mulled wine.  But accompanied by a cone of sugar, soaked in high proof rum and the voila, you try to carefully light it, very carefully, in an appropriate environment.  The first time I prepared it I had my trusted associate, David, with me. We did it outside on the deck and brought the drinks inside.The girlfriend and I first experienced it in Wien Austria, served by the Master Bartender of the hotel bar, Ritz-Carlton. 

        Merry Christmas  Joyous Holiday Joyeux Noelle Frohe Weihnachten Καλά Χριστούγεννα

Buon Natale

Constantine

Wine 101. Just the facts, please!

Let us 

Wine Consultant with clients  Auberge St. Antoine a’ ville du Québec Canada.
Please take note of the carafes, ice bucket & the large ice bath on the serving tray. 

have a discussion today on wine. Not which to drink but how you present and care for wines with your guests.

Simplified, this abstract encourages you to look further once you take a few small steps. 

Caveat, that’s Latin for be careful here. There may be times in circumstances that cause you to not be able to follow these recommendations. So there will be times when you will have to use your own good judgement in deciding what and when to follow these guidelines. Such as you’re at a cocktail party with 25 other people, it would not be cool to test the wine temperature.

1. Glassware.
   Simply stated - medium white wine to serve in a U-shaped glass, focusing the aroma and taste on a narrow opening. 
   
   
   Medium red wine – a bowl shaped wine glass.
   
   
   
   
   
2. Serving temperature - 
   A medium red wine should be sure served at a temperature of 60 to 65°. 
   White wine at a serving temperature of 45 to 50°.
   Champagne 45°.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Aeration or opening.
   Red wine, specifically, and some whites, are dramatically improved if you give them some time to breathe. By that I mean, open the wine, pour into a clean glass container and then pour it back into the wine bottle. That's the simplest advice and that came from Clement Brown, a Wine Connoisseur and salesman for the famous Seagram Company of NYC.  
   
   
   
   
4. Price point for a wine to be served a guest. A good rule of thumb is the adequate price point for a wine you  are getting ready to serve to a guest is between $20 and $30 purchased at the wine store.  Beyond $40 and $60 your into the more more limited, aged and sophisticated wine. 

Those are Constantine's basic wine protocols for the fundamentals of wine – particularly when you are hosting guests.

What follows is of greater depth -

I'm inviting you to take a journey with me along with five other people. My advisory group is comprised of two wine California aficionados, a retired Emeritus Wine Club Chairman, two Sommeliers and lastly, an esteemed Wine Consultant with expertise in Bordeaux. That be Bordeaux France, the city.  

The purpose of this blog post is principally very basic. It will refresh your memory with regards to the purchase, preparation and serving of wines to your guests.

Selection

At risk at enraging anyone I’m going to just proffer one piece of advice or  knowledge – The higher the alcohol content the dryer the wine.

Price point 

Regardless of the type of wine you choose, you should anticipate a wine or bubbles that  you're going to serve to guests, the price point is going to be      -        

More available average wines $20-$25. 

Greater specialty wines, blends $40 and up

Those greatly aged and less available wines $60. and up.  

These price points  will give you a relatively "smart wine" that you'll be pleased to serve your guests or as a gift. 

And yes, mail oui at home I’m content with a vin de table, Sauvignon Blanc sil vows plait. But not so for my girlfriend - her’s more exotic reds chilled appropriately and in a Burgundy glass. 

Storage

I know you won't be surprised to relearn that your wine should be stored in a cool dark location, a cellar  temperature of 55°, a max of 65 degrees. Ideally, a 25 bottled wine cave  is very satisfactory. A 50 bottle wine cave is regally  satisfactory.

Serving temperature

Generally speaking people are universal in agreement that it should be at room temperature, however – understand this is room temperature in a cellar or a drafty old English or French château. That means your wines are probably going to be in the 55° range. The following is the average guidelines for the types of wines  is recommended that you serve so this is the temperature at pouring time –

Champagne and sparkling wines. 45 degrees

White wines.                                     55 degrees

Red wine.                                          61 degrees

If you have not been following this practice some experimentation and you'll realize the significant difference that you get by serving your ones at these temperature

Aerating your wine.

This is similar to decanting, but not the same. Clement  would open a bottle, white or red, pour into a clean glass container and then pour back in the bottle. This allows the wine to aerate just prior to a party you're having with a gathering of people. The purpose of aerating a wine is to let the wine expand-breathe and become like it's original home in those fantastically oak wine barrels where they were first born.

Glassware

We're not talking crystal here. But we are speaking of a good quality wine glass. 

Red wine bowl shaped,     O

White wine,                         U shaped

Champagne,                       Fluted

       Alternatively a “Champagne glass” or a Coupe.

The purpose of the glassware is to enhance the aroma and the taste of the wine, so therefore you want to encapsulate the bubbles of champagne into a small narrow medium. The whole purpose of drinking the champagne is for the bubbles, so why would you pour them in a glass that dissipates the bubbles.

Similarly, with a white wine, you want to focus that you shaped narrow lipped top so that the aroma of these very simplified wines enhance that nose of the wine. Red wines, which are so much more bolder, are best appreciated in a larger bowl that allows those red aromatic notes to rise up to your nose and taste.

Universal wine glasses? There is no such thing as a universal wine glass,  skip that and save your money.

The finish.

I find it very appropriate when I'm first pouring the glass of wine to make a little toast - to my guests. If it's my girlfriend, I might even reach across the table and give her a kiss. A word of caution – be careful here if it's friends.  Toast their health. C'est bon. 

Pouring Champagne at an angle minimises the loss of those fantastic bubbles.  

I hope these tips and this reflection on skills you have learned in the past will serve you well in appreciating your wonderful purchase be a Bordeaux or a Sancerre. 

I would like to thank my wonderful group of advisors who assembled for this commentary. They gave up their time freely and we're most enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge experiences and training.

Merci Mesdames et Messieurs - Vince, Karen, Clement, Frank, Al and -----  along with Robert Parker, Marcel Desaulniers,  Buzz BeLer and the charming wine steward lady from the Bordeaux Chateau and the very wise Sommelier from the Homestead Resort.

“Que la fête commence!"

Constantine 

  

      And, no wine was spilled nor injured during the course of this  gathering.

Cocktail of the Month. November

 November Cocktail of the Month

           Drum roll. 

November's Apple season in the western hemisphere is an excellent time to stock up on Apple brandy or Calvados, from North America to France. I suggest that because it's an excellent base for a remarkable treat, the  infamous Jack Rose cocktail.

The name Jack Rose Cocktail has some differences of opinion with regards to its history, some say it's named after a person, some say it's named after a rose in France. Regardless, it's a remarkably tasty cocktail, both sweet and savory. It balances the Apple brandy, eau de vie - A fruit base brandy. With the lemon juice and the sweet grenadine.

The Laird Company (1)  dating back to the time of George Washington during the American  revolution, will tell you that the resurgence in the Jack Rose cocktail has stimulated their Apple brandy consumption. 

I use Laird’s Apple brandy. But I have seen it served elsewhere with Calvados. I recall one time my girlfriend ordered a Jack Rose at The Prime Rib Restaurant in Washington DC, an upscale bar, fine dining,  and Rob the Barman used Calvados as the base.

While the cocktail has not yet made it to the International Bartenders Association's cocktail list, I can comfortably tell you that the recipe is –

"Jack Rose cocktail"

        Apple brandy 2 ounces (fn 2)

        Lemon juice three-quarter ounce.

        Grenadine one-half ounce.

Shaken till well chilled, poured into a chilled martini glass. Served with a lemon peel or better yet I would prefer a slice of apple.   

Cocktail – Jack Rose cocktail.

Appetizer – Camembert cheese with rosemary cracker.

Music –  Charles Aznavour

Enjoy

1. it is my understanding that the Laird Company of New Jersey buys its apples from the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. Historically, the Laird Company holds the oldest alcohol license in America, Number 1. 
   
   
2. As a devotee of  “liquor replacement theory“ – I think you might be able to replace the Apple brandy with a brandy and a little bit of apple juice. This might give you a hint of what you’re in store for, but it just won’t be the same taste! Regardless, I would still encourage you to try Laird’s Apple Brandy.