Ernest Hemingway's Havanna Vieja - Old Havanna

Constantine's Journey to Havanna Cuba



Seated here in Havanna, Cuba in the old part of the city, I look out on the plaza and see a '57 Chevy BelAir with Cuban flag on the antenna. It's a  luxury being  at the little Pasteleri'a Francesca en la plaza de Central. Its early Saturday morning - so much quieter than last week. I won't even address the difference from the throngs and volume from last night.

Such tarnished beauty here in Havanna Vieja, the old town. But a beauty it remains from the lush tropical plants to the night clubs dating to the 40's and 50's. This tropical climate is so ideal for bonsais and I see them everywhere. From the fancy Ambos Mundos hotel to the plain and simple barber shop. I am curious how did that evolve in Cuba and carried on in such poverished time.

Hemingway is everywhere. The man was an insatiable drinker, if all the bars that make claim he drank there and invented this or that drink at their bar, exclusively for him. Much for the tourists sake his name is kept alive, but I am advised he is much revered in Cuba. And by Fidel Castro as well.

Ah the bars and the drinks. The most notable bars and night scenes are the El Floridita, the Sloppy Joe's Bar and the Bodeguita de Media. On the more restrained side are the roof top lounges of the Hotel Inglaterra and the Ambos Mundos, followed by the Hotel Seville (Biltmore) lounge with an open sky for a ceiling. Further out from the old town is the Hotel Nacional and the Tropicana Night Club. Regrettably the old Hilton, opened only days before the fall of the Bastista regime and the advancing Che Gueverra and Fidel ... the claim seems to be that on the first days Che and Fidel came and resided in the hotel to discuss ... "well now that we have won the war, what the hell do we do?".  A testament to these legends are such books and movies as Graham Greene's Our Man In Havanna, The Godfather movie and other novels.

Photo by SGH

The drinks as one might expect - but is still a little bit of a surprise is "ron", rum. With the El Floridita staking claim to the Daiquiri (they pronounce each letter). The Bodegita claims the Mojito. Sloppy Joe's, from the movie, is acclaimed for its vast inventory of whiskey. Which today the newly reopened Sloppy Joe's displays hundreds of bottles for some 30+ brands. Being historically accurate, they even have and serve "Dimple 15 year old Scotch" whiskey. Which I advised my travelling companion to try and she did, enjoying it.

Cuba is going thru a major transition. It remains a poor country but with  wealth of beauty of music, people, art and buildings. It currently  is very much Europeanized, due to the fact that significant investments are being made by Canadian, English and Spanish companies. Witness the grand Melia hotels in Havanna, the Iberra Hotel chain's Parque Central and the Sofitel chain's "Seville (Biltmore)". Tour buses abound - manufacturer Volvo. Need  a Mercedes limousine, just call for one. Want to drink a Jim Beam & Coke? It's there on the top shelf. Tobasco with your meal? Just ask.

The Cuban people were enthralled we were from the United States, the affinity to the US remains. One which in the future can expect will grow with the 50 minutes ride from "wheels up" in Miami to "wheels down" at Jose Marti Airport in Havanna.

Photo by SGH
Exclusive to Spiritsnob

Viva Hemingway!________________________

El Floridita's Daiquiri (pronounced da e' ki ri)
  created by Constantino Ribalagua Vert, Owner and Cantinero

Rum, lime, sugar and ice, in a blender till smooth
     serve with a straw. On the side - quarter slice of pineapple.

Music - DV the  Salsa and traditional Cuban Music singing group at El Floridita

Appetizer, cold shrimp on pick.