An Ulster Scott Comes Home.

Travels to Northern Ireland, Irish Republic and Glasgow Scotland

Geometric stones of Giant's Causeway.

Just me, along with F. Scott,  Joyce, other writers …   us writers have to come home. My venture home was filled with an unexpected turn of events.

You may have noted that I appear to gather knowledge from Bartenders, generally a classy group of people, well-educated and read, experienced, and overall, with some exceptions, a friendly gaggle of people. Some known to measure the pour, others not. Some prettier. Like  bartenders, barbers also are a source of advice … hair styling, golf tips, pony tips, sports, retirement planning and taking on a new part-time job are some of the issues that come to mind.  I will tell you that there are two barbers important in my life. If you exclude the Urmey Hotel Barbershop of Miami – the  Cuban barber where I grew up, he only spoke Spanish. I always waited just for him. So like my barber Dwayne, who thru trial and mostly error, I have learned to trust his direction …… So on a hunch that a Scot barber might add to my knowledge. So I had my haircut in Glasgow’s Charing Cross neighborhood and learned from my barber that I am likely an “Ulster Scot”. Both the Hare and Maginnis side from Enniskillen and County Down of Northern Ireland. One great grandmother from Glasgow,  Scotland. It’s a good bet then, that I am a Scot from those who moved to Ireland for many reasons, many many years ago. That’s good info to know when you go to Ireland and Scotland.

Ferry Tree  and farmer explaining the
problems created, still to this day.
Kindly note the "ties" on the tree for good luck.

For my trip to Cuba I took with me The Old Man and Sea for reading. Where better to read that book. For some reason I asked someone to autograph it as a remembrance. Well it took off like a hurricane.  Unlike my trip to Cuba, the Irish were not at all inclined to autographing my copy of Edna O’Brien’s The Country Girls Trilogy, the Irish being much less demonstrative than my Greek heritage. “Night and Day” might come to mind. You may recall that I took with me to Cuba The Old Man and the Sea. The Cubans could not autograph it fast enough. Ireland – from the Aer Lingus Stewardess, Immigration …. all politely declined to sign the book. Oh well. I did not meet the bartenders in Cuba that I met on this odyssey.

A trip to Ireland and Scotland by necessity will involve taste testing. To the reader, travel to these fine cities with their superb pubs and bars,  and the staff who will take delight in assisting you – please consider this as your personal guide. To the barwomen and barmen who guided me on this tour, a most heartfelt thanks … Steve,  Mark, Staysi and the Bon Accord bearded bartender whose name I did not capture, along with the many others …

Northern Ireland

An adventure away from Giant’s Causeway

Old Bushmills, Bushmills, Ireland

The Bushmills Bar in the Tavern Dining Room stopover with its tour, cafeteria, bar, and gift shop. The Irish foods were excellent and worthy of the visit,  the whiskey choices excellent, as you could dream. I started with a Bushmill 12YO, and it was as smooth as you could wish. The barman, touching  his nose on the side, offered me a Bushmill 16YO. Oh so smooth. So it’s a lovely treat to journey to Bushmills as you divert from the experience of the remarkable geometric stones of “Giant’s Causeway”, but please make sure to tell your family the true purpose of the trip  is to go to “Giants Causeway”! My date - for the day - enjoyed her Bushmills Honey. We enjoyed are drinks along with Guinness Steak Pie, peas, potatoes along with Guinness Cheesecake. Did I mention peas? You'll have that a lot, love!
This was the second time someone touched their nose in speaking to me. At Trinity College dorm registration, the young man touched his nose and winked, when I asked if anyone would mind if I “stole” one of the TC pens on the counter. I have to talk with some Irish to better understand what’s behind the touching of the nose. But I harbor a suspicion.

Belfast

“Sillies” and “top and bottom” with Mark and Lucy.

The Merchant Hotel’s Bert’s Jazz Bar.

A unique experience in this divided city and divided nation. Our visit to Bert’s Jazz Bar and meeting Barman Mark and Manager Lucy Martin were only to add to the treat. Charmed by the live jazz and the company of these hosts, my favorite girl had a Jack Rose Cocktail.  Mark makes his own bitters and Grenadine. For me, Mark recommended to start with a Green Spot Pure Pot Still. I had that neat with a splash of water. Jazz in the background, seated in the back of the dining room, near to the charming Lucy, we enjoyed the evening.  Later, Mark had me try Spring Blossom [gin, apple juice, lemon juice, mint bitters] which he served to me at our table – nice touch, not seen before.

A side note – sharing with our hosts a piece from the New York Time’s on slang used  by New York’s  barmen/women, the two hosts got together and returned the favor telling me of their own jargon.

• Jigger”. Their word for the 2 cupped measure that they ordinarily refer to as a “top and bottom”. I like that better.

• “Sillies”. Their word for cocktails that are silly (or uncomplicated), e.g., Gin & Tonic, Rum & Coke, etc.

The Most Bombed Hotel in Europe

The Piano Bar, Europa Hotel

This famous hotel, during the troubles was the most bombed in all of Europe. A very refined space with two bars,  overlooking the Great Victoria Street and the more historic pubs of that street. (Aside here – need not be looking for Great Victoria Street in the Irish Republic. Ponder that over a dram.)

That Sunday evening we were treated to Red Breast Irish Whiskey. The lady  neither a whiskey or beer drinker, enjoyed an Irish Smile. So  that evening we took in the quarters, admiring the art piece of an HW shirt from a craftsman who built the Titanic, built by Harland & Wolff Shipyard. You may know it as the Titanic shipbuilder...  a shirt that was only recently found tucked into a joist of the HW boat yard. Barman Michael took pains to explain the history, the story of the shirt, and our drinks. I got quite accustomed to asking the barman for his opinion on what to drink and the general discourse we had over the whiskey.

History abounds in this country of friendy people. Be prepared to be referred to as “love” quite often.

THE REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

It took me some time to understand which of these two independent countries was which. Only being there did I gain a familiarity about which was which, the dominant religion in each, where the “troubles” started and where they may still be active? And of course murals.

Dublin

Staysi a remarkable BarWoman.

Guinness Storehouse

Once you get the picture of how large this site is and its situation in downtown Dublin, its a short 20 minute walk from Trinity College. If your Irish luck permits you a stay at the college.

I found a remarkable bar woman, who saved my experience of this visit.
For – Staysi, seeing I was without a Guinness and having being told I’d have to return back up the 5 stories  to get one, and not enjoying my experience. She went up the 5 floors to the bar and brought one   down back from the five floors . She told me, as I surprisingly looked up,   “I did not want your experience at Guinness to be a disappointment.” [They even speak so elegantly.]
What  a remarkable young woman, about whom I have since written to her supervisor and thanked.  If you see her, give her a kiss from me.

Guinness is worthy the visit for many reasons – a) It’s on the list of to do’s; b) they have good food; c) on the 5^th floor you will see a gorgeous panoramic view  of Dublin, and its profiled cathedrals and colleges; 4) it has a really cool gift shop. Oh yes, and you drink a Guinness.
Thank you, Staysi .

Drinking with Steve, or whatever name he’s going by tonight.

The Brazen Head Pub

Imagine, the date on the side of the building says 1198. That’s not a typo – 1198! Our guide this evening is Steven Wilson along with “Writers Tears”, my whiskey for the evening.

The Brazen Head is  distinctive, charming, has live music & is away from the touristy Temple Bar area of the City “pub”. The pub  itself has a number of different rooms and seating areas. You can visualize how it might have transitioned to growing larger and larger over the centuries. We made it to the main bar that had live traditional Irish music. We enjoyed that evening til closing as the music ended. What a treat, our last night’s stay in Ireland before heading home. Or was I home?

Matching the music from these 6 men and one woman was our guide Steven. Steven made my favorite girl a cocktail of Cuban Rum tres anos, with gingerale and a slice of lime. Made with precision and care – sign of a true craftsman. 


Musicians The Brazen Head Pub

For me, as we conversed with a small group of barmen, in a quiet back bar, after some hunting and gathering by him, Steven presented me with a choice of 4 bottles. Naturally, I selected the Writers Tears 16 YO, Single Pot distilled whiskey. Wonderful!

Back story –an inside joke on the barbill is that the names are fictitious. Vileson Stiflin was the name on the bill. He admitted to being Steve after some good Irish humor. So if you choose to meet Steve and be guided by him, anticipate some other name that night. Give him a touch on your nose and see if he admits to being Steve.

GALWAY

Scallops with a “tail”.

Lohan’s Bar and Restaurant

“Lovely” as my landlady Maureen Tarpey of Dormers B&B in Salthill would say. Waiting on us that evening was Eoin Dempsey, George and we got to meet the lady of the house - Geraldine Lohan! We spent the evening listening to a 3-piece Irish band and enjoyed Irish Lamb Chops and Scallops from Galway Bay. Did I mention Galway Bay? The bay haunted us just outside the window of the very fine establishment and on our walk back home. Geraldine went to great effort to show us the scallops which they serve with a “tail” on it. I can only describe it as similar to a lobster “tail”. The tail tasted fresh from the bay. Paddy Powers was my first for the evening.

The full moon, the River Corrib and Galway Bay.

Il Vicolo Italian Restaurant & Bar

Moonlit Night River Corrib - Galway

Yes, that is correct. Galway has an Italian restaurant. And if you are walking around at 8:30 in the evening, you will be hard pressed to find a restaurant serving dinner at that late hour. We really lucked upon this very fine restaurant, with Grappa enthusiast Rogerino “Rico”, Marsha, and owner Gerry. Our table overlooked the river flowing into Galway Bay. It was a beautiful treat for our last evening in Galway. Lights sparkling on the River Corrib, the sound of the river splashing along the walls and making the turn to what at  one time had been a factory using the water power. We were there ‘til 11:00 PM enjoying our octopus, zucchini flower,  linguini and chocolate mousse … drinking a Cataratto, Nebiolo D’Alba, from Fiang d’  Avellino,  the digestif Fernet Branca,  and a Cocoa Averno for my date.

Scotland

Glasgow

     And you pronounce it “GLASS GO”.

“Coppers” everywhere.

State Pub, Holland Street

State Pub is a coin toss from the City’s major police station. The crowd at the pub seemed not as humorous as I had become accustomed. After striking up the conversation our bartender Jason steered me to Tamdhu 10YO [Speyside],  followed by Broughton Summer Ale. Interestingly they serve this beer without gas. Nice indeed. Listening to the live music, Blues on Tuesday’s, I took note of their bar inventory …Wild Turkey, Jim Beam Black, Canadian Club, Bombay and Sapphire gins, Smirnoff, Drambuie, Bacardi, Disarrono, Chartreuse. Drinkers in this city are no slackers. At the end of the evening I asked Jason –“if you weren’t here, where would you next take a dram?” His response - enthusiastically, “The Bon Accord”.

“A whiskey Bar!”

The Bon Accord

My most favorite because of my experience with the bearded barman. When approached about a cocktail for my “eye candy” that evening, his only comment to me was “it’s a whiskey bar” and turned away. I think he is the most quoted of my barmen. Well, she had a nice wine, and for me a Tennants. This is an authentic Scot Pub, member of the “whiskey trail bars”, football pictures galore, walls lined with whiskey case sides. I took note, not only here but elsewhere – in Scotland the pours are diligently measured. In Ireland they just eye the tipple they pour. Interesting. Maybe that is the reason they call the jigger a “measure”. 

Palomino Smokehouse

Bath Street, Charing Cross

Damien was such a great host that, although Palomino does not classisfy in the pub definition, I wanted you to hear the story. Damien had me try Tallisker 10YO [_Isle of Skye], warmed glass – no water, of course no ice. Damien took pains to demonstrate that he first warms the whiskey glass with hot water, then dries it and only then pours the “tipple”. Charing Cross’ Bath Street is a coming and going area; if you read any detective novels of Scotland, you’ll bump into Charing Cross and Bath Street. Not  certain if my girlfriend had 2 cocktails that night and foregone the wine, or I made note of the names. The bar card noted a “Meat Bar Cocktail” – yes this is called smokehouse for a reason – and the second –“Cheaky Vimto Cocktail” . You know I will have to research those two. But as you can tell, we found another place to enjoy a local meal of Smoked Mozzarella pizza and a Smoked Tasting Plate. Thanks for recommending, Jason, and thanks to Damien for the experience. 

Sláinte!

Drink – “Green Spot Pot Distilled” in a warmed crystal old fashion glass, just a wee splash of spring water.

Appetizer – fresh oysters.

Music – The Pogues – “If I Should Fall from Grace with God”.