If It’s St. James Gate In Dublin, Then It’s Guinness.

Guinness Beer and the Guinness Storehouse. 

It’s an Experience.  

As you walk your way from the Heuston Station, on a brisk cool morning with a dew,  you pass by some brick walls, nestled and maintained with some walls marked “Storehouse l – Gate”, or the “Storehouse”. Lying behind those walls is a warehouse with rows and rows of steel barrel kegs of Guinness. Ready for export to Europe, Canada, the USA, and that pub down the street -  Harkin's - The Old Harbour.

Moving along, as you near the entrance a host or hostess graciously invites you to enter the building. What a delightful experience, but let’s not to get aha’ of myself. (Hint with the 360°  view of Dublin Town, hint!)

GROUND FLOOR

For me, it was a heady treasure to be invited for a guided tour with major domo or Beer Specialist, Kevin. We returned this cool morning to the press area, it was early. Nevertheless, there was a steady stream of visitors coming in on this day of St. Patrick’s Day.

Constantine: (as we started our tour) So Kevin, where you from originally?

Kevin: Right here, all my life.

Constantine: What brought you to this job?

Kevin: My family.

Constantine: What do you do here?

Kevin: My title is Beer Specialist (as he hands me his card, impressively). I provide tours for the Public Relations office and I work the Connoisseur bar, among other duties.

Constantine: Are you the first in your family?

Kevin: No, I am the 5th generation to work at Guinness.  (Stopping abruptly, he points down to the floor. There I see inlaid in the glass cover, a document.  It is the lease of 9000 years for 45 pounds a year. That’s not a typo! In the City Centre. Near the Lifsey. Just down from the Heuston station. Within a stone throw of the Old Harbour Pub. And a wee bit from where the Vikings first came upon Dublin.)

Constantine: The Connoisseur bar?

No, It's Not Kevin!

Kevin: We are  going to drop by, it’ll give you a show. It’s closed but I will give you a private tour.

FLOOR ONE - BREWING

As we start up the stairs, Kevin points out that the interior is designed to replicate the inside of the traditional Guinness Glass. We pass the information that indicates Guinness is made from four ingredients, and you’ll see samples of each: Water, Barley, Hops and of course the YEAST!

FLOOR THREE - THE ADVERTISING.

I was especially taken with the Guinness advertising over the ages. This is a fine example of how Guinness has become such an iconic beverage. Especially true in Ireland, where exterior blank walls of local pubs will have a beautifully illustrated painted wall with advertising for the local beer, you know what I mean - A Guinness! Many of these walls are copies of the posters and older tins and other advertising supplies that Guinness distributors would place in pubs and bars in order to keep that name and harp symbol in the public’s eye. Focusing the customer to say

“I’ll have a Guinness”.

The Toucan Poster - One of which I have in my home from an earlier.

Photo - Author

“Guinness is good for you.      

How grand to be a Toucan,

Just think what Toucan do.” quote from a Toucan poster

In my mind Guinness is a mythical experience:

* Look at the color.

* Look at the foam.

* Harken the taste, some say acquired.

* Pride - there is something about standing at the bar and saying

                               

“A Guinness, please”

 FLOOR FOUR - HOW TO POUR.

As we passed by the Academy (4^th  floor) I made note of the place, as I might want to avail myself of learning to pour a Guinness.

Moving on to the .......

The Connoisseur Bar -  oooooooooooooooooooohhhhhh. I said to self!

Down a semi-private corridor, I was taken to a wood-paneled, ultra-hip, sophisticated, beautifully adorned, loft  cocktail pub style with round top tables and a bar.

And, here is the exclusive Connoisseur Bar. If I recall correctly, it’s by invitation only. It’s pretty darn cool and worth the price. Next time you may see me there, so if you drop by just ask for Constantine. Or better yet, Kevin.

  

Well, as you can read, Guinness Storehouse is a very exciting place. Not just a place to go, so much more.

To top it off, you find yourself on level 7. This is the piece d’resistance - a 360°, fully glass-enclosed, floor to ceiling, view of Dublin, or further than that. Perhaps all the way to Kilkenny!

Connoisseur Bar

The continuing interview with Beer Specialist Kevin.

As we meandered the hall, I continued the questions - and he tells me the story of Whiskey.

FLOOR FIVE

Whiskey.

This is a long and complicated story. ‘Bout some Irish  history, it might seem. It reminds me of the Ulysses aspect of my Irish heritage, or perhaps I day dream.

Story. Arthur Guinness and George Roe had a rivalry, not ribaldry. One was a brewer; the other a distiller. Guess which. They were located near each other. Roe (since 1757) over at St James Tower on the north side of the Liffey. Guinness at the Storehouse, across the river on the South. They  attended competing churches,competed on tithing, it’s a long story. Years pass.

So voila Guinness, or maybe more correctly - parent company - Diageo,  has now made Roe & Company Irish Blended Whiskey, so watch for it! Just across from Guinness again competing but this time with the Distiller Carolyn Martin!

Constantine: What do you do with your time, when you are off?

Kevin: Well this past Saturday I spent the day at the National Institute of Genealogy. I enjoy research.

Constantine: Cook?

Kevin: I burn cornflakes. Good that my ma and Grandma are good cooks.

Constantine: Can I take a picture of you here in the Connoisseur Bar?

Kevin: Guinness prohibits that until you are 25. (Good idea, oh yes, the intelligence of management; know the mischief that those under 25 can get themselves into, group selfie or other.)

Constantine: IS there  a proper way to drink Guinness?

Kevin: Yes there is. First you wait until all the nitrogen bubbles surface. Then you can take a drink. You drink Guinness from below the foam.  The foam should be the last of your drink.

  

FLOOR SEVEN    the end of our journey and time to relax with a Guinness.

The Galaxy Bar, So Cool!

Constantine: Poet?

Kevin: Yeats of course.

 The Guinness Storehouse® is open 7 days a week 9:30am - 7pm (last admission is at 5pm)

• Late opening during July and August, 9am - 8pm (last admission is at 6pm)
• Open all year apart from Good Friday, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, & St Stephens Day.

[Don’t you just love the Irish – St Stephens Day!]

The link for saving on tickets is      https://www.guinness-storehouse.com/en/tickets

Thanks Kevin and Laura-may

Santé-

Drink: Guinness Draft

Appetizer: Small plate Shepherd’s Pie.

Music: If I Should Fall From Grace with God. The Pogues.

Constantine's Irish heritage -  This is a series of posts on Ireland, as Constantine continues his search of Ireland, in pubs and elsewhere, for his family the Maginnis and the O'Hares of County Down and Inniskillin. And Glasgow, too. Thus likely making him an "Ulster Scott".

A Note on Irish Whiskey.

The US Wall Street Journal publication writes of the Irish Whiskey revolution. A Renaissance Ahead. Irish Whiskey is up 131% So it makes sense that Diageo, the parent company of Guinness, as well as so many other liquors –

                Whiskey:               Irish                        Bourbon                Scotch

                Growth                   131%                         56%                        13%

               

                Cases                      7.8M                         20M                       94M

Photos – unless otherwise noted, all pictures are courtesy of The Guinness Storehouse – DIAGEO, Global Leader in beverage alcohol.

               

Cicchetti Time Or My Time With Alessandro in Venezia

Bon Vivant Alessandro

An Excursion in Venezia, or how I met Alessandro – an Italian Bon Vivant -

 WHAT is Cicchetti – OK, think of it as happy hour at the bar with free appetizers, it's that simple. Yes, I said free hors d'oeuvres. One caveat IS of course, you're expected to continue to buy wine while you partake in the free hors d'oeuvres. For some locals, it’s at their favorite bar. Others will go from one bar to another. But it's quite an interesting event not experienced at every restaurant; it seems to be generally at a bar or the bar area of a restaurant.  And the menu varies from location to location; the foods are somewhat a function of how high-end or moderate the establishment is.  Nevertheless, as with all of our experiences with Italian food, it is all really, really good!

SOMETIMES we have a slice of pizza or toast with some cheese and maybe a slice of ham on it, along with nuts, olives, sometimes even a fruit; other times, it’s a more elaborate spread. How would you know it's a Cicchetti at the bar? You pretty much see around 5 o'clock people standing around the bar or some round tables, a good indicator that it's “Cicchetti time”.

HOW. For us it was our first day in Venezia, remember that word for “Venice” - with a forewarning. We had just arrived at the “Ghetto” – no kidding, (‘get outta here!’). We walked to the Rialto, as previously identified and scheduled by Alessandro.  Alessandro was our consummate tour guide, interpreter of fashion, customs, language and decorum.  It was a very pleasant walk. We were a little concerned we might get lost, but we didn't, and arrived at the Rialto reasonably on time. It was a group of other Americans so it was all in English. (Phew!)  Our first stop started at a restaurant where we had a private room set aside for us which gave Alessandro greater opportunity to explain what we would be doing for the next two hours that evening. We enjoyed the wine, and the waiter brought in dishes of foods, then more, and more, each a different dish.

ALL this was in preparation for the group to have an opportunity to ask questions like: Why aren’t we using long-stemmed glasses? How does he like living in Venice? My girlfriend asked what he thought of “grappa”, he seemed pleasantly surprised an American would know of “grappa”. I won’t be telling you all the “outrageous” comments – HILARIOUS – that he would address that evening, but … I did take him up on his comment that you drink “grappa” in the morning; after you have had your espresso and there is a little coffee foam or ‘crème’ on the bottom, you pour in a splash of “grappa”, which I had the opportunity to imitate at Trattoria Bar Pontini, next door to our hotel, The Hotel Filu, (“Ciao Valentina & Federica.”) Just down the street from the Gam Gam Kosher restaurant. Lovely area, the Ghetto!

TO return to Alessandro – I won’t take from him all that he’ll share with you about every subject you can imagine...“how my mother makes pasta”, “what the only good pasta is”, “how to make Tiramasu and thoughts of the Tiramisu you get at the restaurants”, “Aperol or Campari?”, “how he wants you to refer to his city”.

I could go on, but I’d be doing a great disservice to you, the Reader. But rest assured, I will guarantee that you will greatly enjoy the experience, that you will laugh so hard, come away better educated, and enjoy learning how to do “Cicchetti” on your own.

CONTACT Alessandro – you can contact Alessandro by emailing him at the following  address:

alessandro@schezzini.it.

TELL him Constantine sent you. You can meet Alessandro with Rick Steves on a YouTube video.

THIS is not a paid advertisement for Alessandro. Nor am I related to Alessandro.

& it's pronounced ---  "chi KET ee"

A Cicchetti Bar 

…………………………………………

BOIRE

Drink – Prosecco with Campari, or just chilled Prosecco. 

Cicchetti  – green olives drizzled lightly with olive oil and sprinkled with parsley or Oregano

Music – Pavarotti!

Bisous, Constantine

Syrup, Yes That's Correct - Syrup.

Constantine is on hiatus at this time, preparing for the next big blog, this time on Guinness. The "black stuff".

In the meantime let me share with you something I'm exploring. I am beginning to make more and more of my own syrups, or en la Français - Sirop.

Most recently I've made my own simple syrups, grenadine, and Orangerie saccharum.

I recently discovered a recipe that called for Sirop d' Citron. I was making my girlfriend Pink Baby Cocktail.  I had not heard of Sirop d' Citron  before! much to my chagrin.  I'm going to try that as soon as I have some organic lemons. (No chemicals on the surface).

Daisy Mae Cocktail - Pom Syrup Accent on InSide of Glass
Photo Credit - Sarah Houghland, Spirit Snob Photographer

I have begun to realize that using fresh juices is less expensive than the pre-made, pre-mixed versions and is actually better tasting. At one point,  a recipe calling for Roses Lime Juice, I actually found a recipe where you can make your own Roses Lime Juice. Which I did. Took a little time but it was only lime and sugar. So check it out. I'll not  bore you with you some of the recipes, they're pretty simple it's frankly sugar and citruses or pomegranate juice – we're going to Grenadine, for example.

Just look for some reputable sites. I usually first choose Epicurious as my go to site. Or Marmiton in France. In this case I referred to seriouseats.com 

In lieu of a cocktail recipe, I'll offer the recipe for Sirop d' Citron. Try it with some club soda.

While my girlfriend is usually waiting for me to prepare her cocktail,  I like to listen to some jazz while I experiment with the syrups. Serve some walnuts!

Sirop d' Citron
425g (15 oz.) of lemon rinds or 6 medium lemons
200g (1 cup) sugar


Slice lemons thin. Toss with sugar and place in clean container. Let stand 2-3 days. Strain over cheesecloth and squeeze to remove all syrup. Refrigerate. (Author's note - I will update this when I in fact actually test this recipe. )

Appetizer - Walnuts.
Tunes - Blue Monk.

Other syrups you can easily make and you'll find preferabl
Grenadine Syrup        
Pomegranate Syrup
Roses Lime Juice
Simple Syrup 
         

Stay tuned on this site for more on the subject of "syrups". 

Charles Schumann & Schumann's Bar München - The Interview

A Perspective -  Interview with (Charles) Carl George Schumann. 

Introduction

I met Schumann at the Les Fleurs du Mal bar upstairs. I knew him from his picture, so it was immediately telling to me as I saw the gray-haired distinguished-looking man in the white jacket walking behind the bar. Our eyes met, we nodded as if we were old friends. That started this fictional conversation.

My barkeep friend from Praha's CottoCrudo Bar, Tómas asked me if I planned to go to Schumann's bar while in München. I admitted I was not aware of it and he replied ... "it's a must! Worldwide known of". My date and I were in luck, as the place was packed, so a kind gentleman directed us upstairs to the Les Fleur du Mal bar. What an experience that was at the lovely, intimate bar (with a full length bar top from one piece of wood.)

Schumann is a well-regarded bar man & restaurateur. You will find his bars on some lists of the world's best bars. When I started out on the prospect of the interview, I thought of his website comment, "it says there is no secret to Schumann's roast potatoes, except that I am the only one who could make them". Strikes me as a kind of hands-on guy, one not blessed with the ability to delegate and walk away.

Charles Schumann

I started off by telling Herr Schumann that he has established a reputation remarkable for this working class city, which is well known for the Schumann's bars. It's a little difficult to describe, but there are multiple bars at his main location - some located within the same building and another down the street. When we visited, it was so packed; it was suggested that we go upstairs. What a find that was! I pondered the bar top - a single piece of board that is 9 meters long.

Constantine: You were born in 1941 in Regensberg. What was it like growing up right after World War II in this world? 

Schumann: They were tough times. I am happy we do not have that world anymore.

Constantine: Regarding your music – I see that your music was not particularly piped in; I recall it being lively but quiet jazz. What is your philosophy in regard to music in the bars? 

Schumann: I want my guests to enjoy the music, but not so as to interfere with their enjoyment of their conversations, eating, etc. 

Constantine: Books?

Schumann: Two books. (writer's comment - Charles Schumann is the author of 2 books, still available: Schumann's Barbuch - Drinks and Stories; and, American bar, the artistry of mixing drinks.)

Constantine: So what it is about the roast potatoes?

Schumann: Potatoes to Germans are a fundamental to the dinner or meal. It's important that I demonstrate to my staff that the humblest of roles is as important as is the care we take in the preparation of the rest of the meal and cocktails. I think of it as a demonstration of the care that I want my staff, from dishwasher to Chef, to take in the presentation we make to our guests.

And, verstehen Sie, you know - I enjoy this task. It gives me a sense of peace.

Constantine. Being hands-on, how often do you get to the Tagesbar? Do you take the trolley back-and-forth between the Odeon and the location on Maffeistraße.

Schumann: Ja. I prefer the trolley to go back and forth. Did you take the trolley here? 

Constantine: Yes, mein fräu and I came up by the trolley.

Constantine. How did the Schumann's barware come about? {Schumann's barware is made and sold by Villeroy & Boch and Zweisel Kristallglass. You can purchase it online.} 

Schumann: I was having a glass of wine one day with Bernard Reuter, the executive of V&B - before he went over to your country to manage VB -  somehow the topic of how I choose my barware arose. I told him I was very particular of the choice of glass and the purpose they serve. The short story is that from there we began a longer conversation on what I'd like in barware and how could it be manufactured. In turn we established a relationship for the use and sale.

Constantine: Known for drinks - how do you choose your meals to balance with the menu of your cocktails. 

Schumann: I take care, with my staff, to create a cocktail menu that balances with the dinners we offer. We are not pretentious;  however, you will see that the choices of dinner in one way or another relate to one or more of the cocktails. 

Constantine: How did you get the nickname Charles? (I had a cousin named Charles who started a restaurant with his brother). 

Schumann: It was a nickname only. Nothing special. I picked it up in France.

Schumann's Bar
The top shelf is  Campari bottles.
Photo - Schumann website

Constantine: Your assessment of the current cocktail scene around the world - particularly the recent renewed interest in cocktails?

Schumann: For me this is not something new. We have been a world recognized cocktail bar since 2000. I do believe though that the tide has come back in, and now people are looking for something more exciting than the newest red wine. So we now enjoy the sense of pride we take in our cocktail list and the preparation. As you can see from the crowd, business is booming.  And you know of my book, dating back to 1995. It's a return, you know.

Constantine: And it is not only for the Campari. 

Schumann: No, that is also one of my marketing ventures. But I am a fan of Campari and I believe the color is very dramatic and inspires oneself.

Constantine: Thoughts on steak? 

Schumann: Steak is good, once in a while. It should be properly seasoned and prepared correctly. I am not a fan of eating meat regularly. One should in all matters of life and drink be moderate

Wine Glass
Photo - S. Houghland

Barware
Photo - S. Houghland

Constantine: How was it in Switzerland?

Schumann: Fine, I like the country and the people. It is close to my birthplace so it is much similar to where I grew up. I did learn quite a bit in Switzerland; it was fundamental to my hospitality background. 

Constantine: Your view of the world? 

Schumann: As you may know if you did any research on me, my earliest training was as a diplomat in the German foreign office. I spent some years there. So I am still much interested in and concerned with the affairs of the world. There is much to be done and there is still much craziness in the world.

Schumann's Bar am  Hofgarten and  the Camparino bar, and Les Fleurs du Mal bar

Odeonsplatz 6 – 780539 München

Schumann's Tagesbar

Maffeistraße 6 

80333 München

Cocktail: Taoyame* ( a Schumann creation)

20 ml Pisco

10 ml Shochu

15 ml Cointreau

15 ml lemon juice

      shake well, (pour into coupe, serve with cherry) author's addition

Appetizer: Smoked salmon on toast 

Music:  JazzRadio from  Berlin (jazzradio.net)

FULL AND COMPLETE DISCLOSURE WITH NO EXCUSES

This is a fictional creation of an interview that had I had the chance

I would have conducted with Charles. The responses presented here are

solely the creation of the author and do not reflect in any way the ideas, 

philosophy, concepts, etc. of Charles Schumann.

Want to read more on Charles Schumann?

http://www.zeit.de/2011/38/Charles-Schumann/komplettansicht

"Some of the cocktail recipes created by Schumann:

• Flying Kangaroo
• French 68
• Lightweight
• Osteoarthritis
• Swimming pool
• Low-cost

Credits:The website of Schumann's Bar and Wikepidia "Charles Schumann". - 

Cocktail credit courtesy of Nicholas Coldicott of theJapanesetimes 

S. Houghland
Personal Photographer to Spirit Snob

Saint Valentine and Cupid – Two Guys Who Created Quite a Bit of Mischief, Fun and Love

Omnnia vincit Amors, et nos cedamus Amor. Vergil f.n.1

This blog piece started out as a more considered piece than I suspect it may turn out. The considerable amount of research and abundant sources (Wikipedia, Vergil) would surprise you. And perhaps delight. 

I have a personal experience with one of these characters, as, well, as I tell the story of how my true love and I met – there was drinking and shouting (directed toward me) involved, but more of that at another time or over a Guinness at The Brazen Head; well, to get to the point.  I have told innumerable persons that my love at our first true meeting came up to me and told  me I had a big mouth [fact check – “true”] (it was about 2:30 in the morning, a party, some trying to sleep). I commented to my bud, Dickie, “she’s a hot little thing!” and believe that cupid struck me with one of its love-potioned arrows [f.n.2]. It’s true, I will always believe it was Cupid striking me. That was 50 years ago. 

Let’s get back to the story: Saint Valentine - yes, he really is a saint - lived a long time ago, in the Third Century  AD.  Likely switching from the worship of early Roman gods, he turned Christian and soon commenced marrying people. Skipping over the long story … St. Valentine was jailed and before he was executed, sent a note to the jailor’s daughter, signing it “Your Valentine”. [What, you thought it was a writer from Medici or Hallmark cards who created that?]

Cupid, the little guy you think is so cute – well, he’s a mischievous little angel, in earlier times referred to as Eros by the archaic Greeks.  In my determination, the Greek gods used him to make mischief with humans, making them fall in love with the various humans and bearing children (“Leia and the Swan”). 

Real or imagined, it makes for great stories.  Equally as important, it serves your purposes of using them along with my drink recipe that follows, with ta femme (your girl). You can tell ta femme  the story of St. Valentine; there is no need for attribution. Tell her you were researching the history of St. Valentine. As you are surely aware, we are closing in on the annual western world holiday of Valentine’s Day.  Few men, one of whom is a well-respected son-in-law, are able to ignore Valentine’s Day as a superfluous celebration. He does redeem himself, carrying it off quite well, frankly; however, he’s the exception to the rule. 

Typically, a gentleman is expected to take his lady out for dinner, possibly dancing. The gentleman is of course appropriately dressed. Dinner need not be the traditional restaurant dinner, it could be an upscale bar or pub that serves a variety of appetizers. Wien’s Ritz Carlton Melounge Lobby Bar comes to mind. Just seek out something that has some piano music or other light orchestra accompaniment. Purchase a meaningful gift (no, that does not mean a gift certificate to “The Agent Provocateur”). Make it something personal that you pick out with a sales associate’s assistance. Suggestions – a clutch purse on the elegant side; or perhaps a black slip dress. Of course, gold jewelry is always a perfect choice.  If appropriate, one might have it delivered to the lass’s place of work. Imagine the delight as she opens the box from Selfridge’s, or Galeries Lafayette (Paris), or Berlin’s KaDaWe, or Neiman Marcus. And the laughter that will flow as jealous co-workers see the sleek, silky black slip dress you have selected for her to wear for the evening. 

Forego the bouquet of flowers or dozen red roses. Seek out something different that your girl might take with her for the evening – such as single red rose…tulip…gardenia flower,  with embellishment, intended to be carried with her and laid down on the table, or otherwise shown off to those around, making them wistful for a gentleman like you who went to such extent. 

Suggested “alternate dining” locations around the world intended to make a girl swoon ---

       Munchen - Schumann’s Les Fleurs du Mal 

       Paris - Candelaria – Le Marais

       Athens - A for Athens Roof Bar in Mitropoleos

       Washington -The Prime Rib Piano Bar or Willard’s Round Robin Bar

       Dublin - Back Bar, The Brazen Head (ask for Steve)

       Amsterdam - Bols Bar, 2 free drinks!

       Belfast - Champagne Lounge, Merchants

       Venezia - Harry’s Bar or The Cipriani’s San Giorgio Bar

       

       ……………………………………………………………………….

Valentine's Day
A Sarah Houghland Photo

To veux être ma Valentine?

Cocktail: Kir Royale. 

Champagne (not sparkling wine) and Chambord.

Music: Charles Aznavour, or a personal favorite of mine, “This is the Night for Love” the Valiants.

Appetizer: Smoked oysters;  or Oyster Gratin with Noilly Prat Zabaglione

Footnote to scholarly publication.

Footnote 1.  “Love conquers all, and so let us surrender ourselves to love” – Vergil, an ancient guy who wrote a lot.

Footnote 2. Cupid's arrows were filled with a potion with inscrutable desire.

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Sarah Houghland
Personal Blog Photographer