Harry's Bar Rules

Bar Rules 

After a viewing of the Christmas display at Pari’ Galeries Lafayette grand marche and a stop at the beautiful ornate Opera, my date and I took a stroll down Avenue de l’Opéra to “Sank Roo Doe Noo” to experience the legendary Parisian landmark, Harry’s New York Bar  (1911). Enjoying the mid-day cocktail and reading the bar menu with “Bar Rules”, I realized to myself we should all know the bar rules, so I share them with you. The IBF stands for “International Bar Fly”. 

            “Aside note” - on the US Presidential Election. The bar has polled US citizens since 1924 and, with  the exception of 1976 and 2004, it has correctly called the election of the US President. If interested you can check the status and call them at +33 1 4261 71 14. 

Curious as they may be, these rules from Paris’s first cocktail bar, 1911, Harry’s New York Bar, do serve as a poignant reminder of the essential practices one should approach drinking & socializing. So take heed as you read over these rules, harken to the words and enjoy the festivities.

Harry’s New York Bar, Paris

1. The IBF is a secret and sacred fraternal organization devoted to the up life and downfall of serious drinkers.

2. Members must buy if not at the moment Sometime. What is a decade among friends.

3. Any members of the IBF caught cutting out paper dolls after a  bad night must hand in their resignations.

4. Those that come to the Trap at 5 A. M. and are able to play a ukulele without rehearsal are eligible for life membership.

5. Members bumping their chin on the bar rail in the act of falling are suspended for ten days.

6. Members who have the idea they can wallop Dempsey are notified that there is a plastic surgeon on duty night and day close to the traps.

7. Those seeking cerise cats with purple ears should keep it to themselves. Traps are not zoological gardens.

8. Those sniffling about “the best little women in the world” and starving for another round must pay for it.

9. Remember, nothing is on the house but the roof.

10. Those who decide drinking is a menace are welcome at all times but should just keep quiet.

11. And remember that there are a lot of boys in the rear who might want something.

12. Backslappin after six drinks to be tempered with mercy remember, IBF’s have false teeth.

13. Any members breaking any of the above rule will be penalized drinks to all IBF’s present.

Harry’s New York Bar Paris describes itself as creator of a few of the following – Bloody Mary (1921), Side Car (’31), James Bond (’62), & French 75 (‘ 25).

So fix one of these historic cocktails, sit back, and read the rules once more. 

Harry’s New York Bar, Harry’s Bar, Harry’s, International Bar Flies, Barfly, Sank Roo Doe Noo.     Are registered trademarks of Harry’s New York Bar Paris

Read, Read, Read

Read, Read, Read

Like Vodkas [fn1], there are a great deal of cocktail books out there, all of which propose to tell you how to make a cocktail, and with what ingredients. So how do I separate the wheat from the chaff?

            [Fn 1] Vodka is a tasteless ethanol, typically made from wheat and mostly made by some major establishments. So how does one differentiate one from another? If it’s tasteless and you’re making a complex, fruity martini, like a Cosmopolitan,  does it really matter?

So many books professing to be “new” and “exciting”. 

Embury goes on to define "cocktail"  as:  i. whets the appetite, ii.stimulates the mind, iii. pleases the palette, iv. pleases the eye, v. has sufficient alcohol, and vi. is well iced. However, if you know the secret [fn2], then you too can create your own special drinks.

            [fn 2] David Embury, pages 34-ff: a cocktail consists of a base (50% alcohol), for example vodka; combined with an agent (think lime juice or bitter); and a flavor (think of cranberry juice). Voila! A Cosmopolitan Martini Cocktail.

Frankly, all the cocktails have been pretty much invented. That’s not to keep you from slightly altering a recipe. Say, substituting fresh basil for cucumber and then Voila! change the name.

Strive to be an educated mixologist – not just a “cocktail by trial and error” mixologist (as I once was!)

With that in mind,  I have prepared this review of the books and resources I find to be invaluable to me in researching ingredients, liquors, substitutions, etc. and in the understanding of my own blending of a cocktail, making  my own Grenadine Syrup and bitters or perusing a book just hanging around on my cocktail table from Frau Martina Müller-Frasch of Melia's INSIDE Frankfurt hotel,  “Frankfurt Bar Tales”.

Constantine's Bookshelf
Photo - author.

            Presented here – categorized, are:

Guide to Mixology

The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks. David A. Embury, 1948. A staple on the theory of mixing, ratio of base (liquor) to accents and ingredients. Reviews liquors and includes recipes. A read of his biography is amazing.

Bitters & Shrub Syrup Cocktails – Restorative Vintage Cocktails, Mocktails & Elixirs. Warren Bobrow, 2015. Another how to on the creation of shrubs and bitters. A good tool.

Drunken Botanist, The Plants That Create the World’s Greatest Drinks. Amy Steward, 2013. What plants are used to create what liquors. You’ll want to know.

Cocktail Recipes

The Merchant Hotel Bar Book III.5.  The Merchant Hotel, Belfast. Download free. This is a 198 page beautifully photographed cocktail recipe book categorized with detailed recipes from their 3 bars. Pick one up in Belfast. [Yes that is correct this is a free 198 page, beautiful photos, downloadable cocktail book with detailed ingredients. Did I mention free. Email Merchants and thank them, si’l vous plait.]

Old Mr. Boston Deluxe Official Bartender’s Guide, Leo Cotton, 1935. Classic guide to cocktails and some other resources.

The Savoy Cocktail Book. Harry Craddock, 1930. Classic drink recipe book with substantial information on punches, and other drinks other than the traditional cocktail.

Mixology “MIX”. (ap. Free) Has the ability to search for cocktails by ingredient, name and has the ability to inventory your liquor cabinet.

Resources

Kindred Spirits 2. F. Paul Pacult, 2008. Tool recommended by the Chateau Frontenac barman who uses it as a rating guide to liquors on taste and value. Good tool if you want to know more before you buy; as well as choosing wisely.

The Drunken Botanist. Amy Stewart, 2013. Botanist guide to liquor! Delightful.

Ultimate Guide to  Spirits and Cocktails. Andre Domine, 2008. Don’t be intimidated by its size. Worldwide resource to liquors by nation as well as type. Important for any world traveler.

Rösle Bar Equipment. Rösle. Rösleusa.com. www.rösle.de
Website "Serious Eats, Cocktails and Spirits". Resource for cocktail 101 basics on ice, tools and techniques. www.drinks.seriouseats.com. Michael Dietsch does an outstanding job in teaching of tools, techniques and liquor reviews. An outstanding resource on how to.

Menus

Collect them on site, asking first of course; or download from your favorite bar website.

Pretty picture books, biographies and notables.

Drinking With Men. Rosie Schaap, 2013. Interesting autobiography by a prominent mixologist and writer for the New York Times, International Herald Tribune, and who knows what else.

The Cocktails of The Ritz Paris. Colin Peter Field, 2001.   Colin is the head bartender of the Paris Ritz Hotel’s “Hemingway Bar”. That hotel. That Bar. That Hemingway, who following the liberation of Paris at the end of World War II, pulls up with  half-track load of GI’s and takes them in for champagne! I’d name my bar after him too.

Frankfurt Bar Tales, An Intimate Insider’s Guide. Zinzow, Leo & Hoehne, 2006. The bars of Frankfurt, Germany.

Whiskey Women, The Untold Story of How Women Saved Bourbon, Scotch, and Irish Whiskey. Fred Minnick, 2013. The role of women in the liquor industry. Who knew?

Appetizers and Cookbooks

Culinaria. Konemann. A series on Greece, Spain, Germany, France and others that includes culture, food, and beverages and wines and liquor information and explanation.

Lucky Peach Magazine. Peter Meehan, published quarterly and online. A chef’s magazine and excellent resource. Complimentary newsletter found at store.lky.ph

Happy Reading!

Cocktail

Blackberry Bramble
1 part gin
 .75 part lemon juice
 .5 part simple syrup
 .5 creme de mure or blackberry liquer
shake ingredients with exception of the de mure, on ice. Pour into rocks glass with fresh large pieces of ice. Drizzle de mure on top and garnish with blackberry and other as you please.  
Appetizer – sea salt sliced avocado, lime side

Music – Marcel Zanini’s “Un Bourbon, Un scotch, Une Biérre” [Apple iTunes]

Saint Patrick's Day

It's a good day to buy a 12 pack of Guinness. 

Pick up a bottle of sparkling wine, too. 

Lastly, drop by your local package store for a bottle of Ireland's Writers Tears Pot distilled. No Writers Tears?  Go for the Powers. 

Chill two coupe Champagne glasses.

Tomorrow - 

Pour a tipple of Writers Tears in a warmed whiskey glass (it's still a little chilly in the house.) This  will brighten your spirits as you prepare your Black Velvet cocktail. 

BV Cocktail
Guinness and champagne poured equally in to the coupe. Garnish with a maraschino flagged pick. 

       Footnote - in Ulster you can use a Union Jack flag pick. Dublin and south I'd strongly encourage use of the green~white~orange flag! Hopefully you know why. 

As for me, I'd listen to a little of The Pogues. 

Dîner en Blanc

Dîner en Blanc
A White Dinner

Dîner en Blanc   Notre Dame Paris

Photo credit: The New York Times

How many of us would dare trust a relative unknown to add us to a list for a dinner where –

•      You don’t know where the dinner will take place and you pay months in advance,
•      Or, What’s on the menu,
•      And, what you say?  you have to bring your own chair … 

So that’s one version of what I have read, and learned and experienced.  The event of course, seems to have been initiated in France. Of course   ...    Je nais sais quoi!

It goes this way – if lucky enough you are invited to a dinner by a friend of a friend’s acquaintance. You pay for the dinner up front. You are then given instructions:  what you’ll bring and what date to set aside. No more information is given to you. You see that your credit card has been charged for the dinner.

You wait patiently. You ponder – “did I get suckered into something and gave away my money”. Ha Sucker!

On the specified date, and near the time prescribed – you finally receive a message - IM.

The IM prescribes an address you, your date, your lover, your new boyfriend (not all together) - are to go to.

Voila!                      You travel.                     You arrive.

                   It’s a sea of white.

Your eyes dance with delight as you visualize the soft yellow light from tall candelabras. The sparkle of champagne bottles and glasses radiating from the brilliant white table cloths. And silver cutlery. On each table their sits, perched high, fresh greenery…

As you and your girl move forward, among a couple hundred –  a line forms  thru a rose covered trellis that serves as  an entrance way. Some really big guys serve as bouncers - in their black jackets and turtle necks, scanning your IM.

You are permitted in – <<entre vous Madame, Monsieur>>.

So begins an evening of indulgences as you imbibe, sip and dine.

                                Ca'napes  served by bosomy costumed wenches

A woman, tall, heeled & dressed all in black, she’s very tall and carries a wand. The Director, Louise Wood, serves as the evening's hostess. At her direction a 5 piece string orchestra commences with Vivaldi.

The lady in black, Louise, our director for the evening, invite all to be seated at the table - of your host. Each table has a host and when you are invited to sit, ah! Yes, there’s the person you gave your money to. She serves as the host of your table of 12 for the evening. Of what will become a raucous event you will remember for a life time.

MENU

Ca'napes served by bosomy costumed wenches, followed by – Pork Rind, Fresh Pickled Vegetables, Smoked Cured Tongue, Field Greens & Pomegranate Dressing, Smoked Bluefish Cakes, Wood Roasted Pork Shoulder, Beef Brisket, Stewed Tomatoes & Pickles, Roasted Sweet Potatoes, Fresh Corn and Lima Bean Casserole, Grilled Roasted Herb Break, Virginia Cheese, and desserts of Blackberry Cobbler, Lemon Pound Cake and a cup of Buttermilk Ice Cream with Local Honey. To drink – Bold Rock Cider, Wheat beer, and as a finale, the Chef for the evening personally serves you  “Eiswein”.

So this is the event!

Boite – Champagne Cocktail

Appetizer - Vegetables a la Grecque

Music -   Vivaldi (Orchestre de Paris)

FN – The Menu is from Chef Dave Everett' version of the Dîner en Blanc ...  

"The Trellis Farm to Table" ….

The Trellis "Farm to Table Dinner"

Photo credit: Author

Conversation With A Barman at Four Seasons, CottoCrudo Bar Praha, Czech republik

Tómas and I were in sync when he was reaching into “RAM” for the name of the Paris bar,  <<where you have to go thru a Mexican kitchen>> … <<Candelaria>> said I. <<Yes>> said he.

That started off an evening of education and training for me. It, as always, typically included taste testing. But first this seasoned barman wanted to know where we’d been and where are we going. I reviewed the list of cities and Christkindlmarkts that were to be explored. For certain, a visit to Schumman’s Bar in Muenchen, he indicated. We talked. While my girlfriend was enjoying her ”Road to Sky” cocktail, Tómas wanted to know what she thought. Then, turning to say he’d be back, he headed back to the bar, returned with a new drink which he  presented to my date - a “Czech Me Out” cocktail. Nice foam on the top, I indicated, wondering if it was egg whites. Tómas indicated not. And then began my education.

Tómas indicated that an alternative to using egg whites, for the reason of persons with immune issues, is to use gelatin. He went on to explain that actually he has the kitchen prepare the foam. The recipe is simple enough …. gelatin, St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur, lemon juice combined in whipping cream syphon. When needed, just shoot it out. Lasts maybe a week. And your cocktail is taken up a notch or two with the lovely foam and scent as you take the drink.

Tómas is a character, talking of wishing to compete in the New Orleans Barman's competition. If I recall correctly, he’d been to a competition in the Far East during his stint at Singapore’s Four Seasons.

This CottoCrudo Bar at  the Praha, otherwise known as Prague, Four Seasons certainly is a locals hangout. For certain, as we observed “culturally inappropriately” costumed Indian Chief, Indian squaw very noticeable in the short skirt, and others celebrating Saint Mikulus Day. Certainly, the food and the environment are conducive to an entertaining evening in Stare Mesto as the old towne is known. Accompanied by the knowledge of an accomplished Barman.

 

Boite – Road To the Sky Cocktail

Becherovka liqueur, 50 ml

Cointreau, 15 ml

Lemon juice, 15 ml

Maraschino syrup, 20 ml

Angostura bitters, 2 dashes

Combine and shake. Top with Limoncello Elderflower foam and top with rose peppercorn flakes.

 

 

Bar Measurements Conversion Table

Measurements

Source: DrinkMixer.com, Bartenders Guide

Unfortunately, there is no single units of measures in use world wide. This measurement conversion table was made to help you determine measurements in different units.

Using definite measures in recipes make them more difficult to create by someone who uses different measures, therefore a good bartender should always use relative measures in their recipes.

If proportional units are used, the drink creator can rest assured that where ever the drink is mixed, it tastes the same, and that should be the ultimate goal for everyone who creates mixed drinks.

Standard Units   ml ounces (oz) dash 0.9 1/32 teaspoon 3.7 1/8 tablespoon 11.1 3/8 pony 29.5 1 shot 29.5 1 splash 3.7 1/8 measure (msr) 26.5 0.9 mickey 384 13 jigger 44.5 1 1/2 wine glass 119 4 split 177 6 cup 257 8 miniature (nip) 59.2 2 half pint (US) 257 8 half pint (UK) 284 9.6 tenth 378.88 12.8 pint (US) 472 16 pint (UK) 568 19.3 fifth 755.2 25.6 quart 944 32 Imperial quart 1137 38.4 half gallon (US) 1894 64 gallon (US) 3789 128

Wine and champagne   litres ounces (oz) split (1/4 btl) 0.177 6 "pint" (1/2 btl) 0.3752 12 "Quart" (1 btl) 0.739 25 magnum (2 btls) 1.478 52 jeroboam (4 btls) 2.956 104 tappit-hen 3.788 128 rehoboam (6 btls) 4.434   methuselah (8 btls) 5.912   salmanazar (12 btls) 8.868   balthazar (16 btls) 11.824   nebuchadnezzar (20 btls) 14.780   demijohn (4.9 gallons) 18.66   Metric Measurements metric system is based on tens, thus:   ml cl dl ml 1 0.1 0.01 cl 10 1 0.1 dl 100 10 1 ml = millilitre, cl = centilitre, dl = deciliter

  Read more: BARTENDER GUIDE: Liquid measurement conversion. http://www.drinksmixer.com/guide/


Dry Measures Typical


Granulated sugar    7.1 oz or 201 g
Honey & Syrup     12 oz or 340 g

Syrups

GUILTY , oui, I admit it.  For years I was accustomed to bartending with Rose’s Lime Juice, and the red sticky Grenadine syrup. I  thought that really was the authentic "Grenadine". Probably bad habits I picked up bartending at the Lafayette Restaurant in Williamsburg.  Simple syrup?  I remember my mother and my girlfriend making it, but to use in a bar?  Sugar cubes of course, or just old-fashioned plain sugar crystals.

Now well into my 40’s (wink) and having established my old friend Old Mr. Boston Official Bartender Guide, well, I have matured and seen the light in using freshly made syrups, juices and infusions.

So I present here some recipes for the most frequently called upon syrups –

Simple Syrup – 1 cup or 201 g sugar to 1 cup/257 ml water. Bring to a boil stirring gently, then let cool and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. 

Grenadine Syrup – 16 oz or 514 ml Pomegranate juice to 7.1 oz/201 g sugar; bring to a boil stirring gently, then let cool and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Raspberry Syrup – 1 cup or 201 g super fine sugar, 1 cup/257 ml water, ½ pint (or 8 oz. or 257 ml ) of fresh raspberries, puree to cook down, but maintain fresh flavor. About 4 minutes. Add puree to syrup and let cool. Place in airtight container in the refrigerator.(Mark Brinker, Barrelhouse Flat Chicago.)

Ginger Syrup – 4.5 oz or 128 g fresh ginger, 7.1 oz/201 g superfine sugar, 8 oz/257 ml water. Add ginger to syrup and let cook low heat for 20-30 minutes. Pulse in a blender, cool and refrigerate for 24  hours before using. Refrigerate. (Debbie Peek of Southern Wine and Spirits.)

Some recipes indicate the addition of 100 proof vodka, 3/8 oz/11.1 ml, as a means of further lengthening the life of the syrup.

Fresh juices, lemon, lime, orange  – I make my own, squeezed and strained so there is no residual pulp in the cocktail I make.

Once you have mastered the art, you’ll begin to notice recipes that call for Demerara syrup, or Castor. These are still sugars and you make them as you do the simple syrup.

Recently I began to stockpile cans of  Sanpellegrino for an emergency source of fruit juices. Aranciato Rossa (blood orange), Limonato (lemon) and Pompelmo (grapefruit).  Works quite well in a pinch.

With time and experience you may begin to make your own cocktail onions in French vermouth, cherries in brandy, ...

"Gomme syrup”?  The possibilities are endless.

Resources? Imbibemagazine.com; diy-cocktail.com a la’ Marcia Simmons!

Master the Art!

The Royal Gingersnap

1 ½ parts Crown Royal

2 dashes (1/16 oz or 1.8 ml) Ginger syrup

1/8 oz / 3.7 ml Orange Marmalade

1 Maraschino Cherry

1 Orange slice

Muddle fruits an syrup. Add Crown Royal and ice. Shake well and strain over glass with rocks

Garnish with a flamed orange peel.

Music – Los Zafiros
Appetizer –  Parmesan slices and warm bread


Conversion to gram  ml was updated on 12.1.2016